Running through the Beauty of the Lost City (Inca Trail Marathon 2013)

Arrived the city of Lima late night on the 29th of May greeted by the  Andean cool winter breeze. It was cold (at least for me). Coming from a place that has been experiencing extreme summer heat, all I hope for at that very moment was that I hope I  packed enough winter clothing to keep me warm  on the entire trip especially on the days that I will be at the camp and most especially on the race proper. It was dark, and just few steps out of the airport was the hotel where I will be staying for the night. Carmela from Andes Adventures was there to assist us and as soon as we got settled in our rooms, I excitedly claim my welcome drink, I opted to try the famous native drink of Peru, the Pisco Sour. I am not into drinks  with alcohol but I said I'll give it a try, not bad after all. I just had few sip and decided to hand it over to my friend. Aside from Coca Tea, I never thought this will be the start of my several Pisco Sour welcome drinks in the coming days.

An early flight the following day bring us to the ancient city of Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire and the continent's oldest continuously inhabited city. Hoteles Costa Del Sol will  be our home for 6 days of this adventure. And just like Lima, the weather in Cuzco was also cold. Each day from the 31st of  May has been  spent on running and exploring the beauty of this ancient place. 25 participants, 20 of which are runners from 7 countries,  with the American Race Director, Devy, and 2 local guides. Thanks to the five days spent  few hours of running and a day of trek to the campsite before the full trail marathon race came, all of those activities give myself a chance to acclimatize to the altitude and get used to the cold weather. Each day of running has been spent on famous landmarks and historical places significant to the culture and history of this region. I am so blessed for not all runners/trekkers and/or tourists can experience and see the beauty of  some parts if this country by running.

I come and join this expedition with less expectations for I do not even thought that this scheduled trip will ever push through. Last minute decision, finally packed my things and boarded the plane. Everything did not sink into my mind that I am going for an adventure of a lifetime, that I am going to a sacred place of a long lost civilization, a place that most people dream of going, my dream destination as well. All I think and know is that I am going to run a full marathon on a trail/road  that is  carved and artistically  laid by the hands of the Inca people hundred of years ago. Just enjoy what ever this trip will bring me was all I think of. As usual, I thought, just smile, explore and make the best out of what the place can offer.

Bringing inside my bag tones of excitement and less of expectations on my running performance,  I did not even know that in the next few days I will embark to do  "The Most Difficult Marathon in the World." The past 17 years, in the absence of the GPS technology to measure the correct distance of the trail, what Andes Adventures (the organizing team) has been doing is just 33km trail race along the ancient Inca Trail which is now called the Inca Classic Trail Run. Beginning this year, with the right measurement, (thanks to the invention of GPS), the distance has been measured and corrected to  a full marathon, 42.2km to be exact,  with an elevation gain of 10,384ft. Those figures did not really sink into my mind at all. Not even the running cut off time of 13 hours and a cut off of 3:30pm at the main entrance gate to Machu Picchu National Park.  Otherwise runners who will not reach within that time will go on detour to the trail that will lead to the hotel that the group will be staying,  that will serve as the finish line rather than on the famous Machu Picchu ruins.  Much worst if runners cannot really reach the detour point within day time,  an emergency camp at Phuyupatamarca, few more kilometers before the entrance gate to of Machu Picchu is being prepared. After the race briefing, two of the runners who originally signed up to do the Full Marathon  down graded to the Inca Trail Classic distance which I did not know even before few hours after the race proper. 

All the runners doing the two race categories stayed for the night at the camp on a tent before the race proper at Llactapata (2,638MASL), less than a kilometer away from the starting line. The campsite is situated on a valley surrounded by towering mountains of the Urubamba mountain range facing on an ancient ruin. The place is cold but with a magnificent view. The early lights off did not help me get an early good night sleep. It was cold inside the tent, even inside my sleeping bag. I wish I brought  my much warmer one, and much warmer inner layers, it took me a while to get a comfortable position and finally doze off to sleep but had to wake up several times to pee. The magnificent view of the glittering stars that shines bright through the Peruvian sky is just really beautiful.

Race Proper, June 5, 2013

I have been awake even before the wake up call of 2:00am, I am not too sure if I really got a good sleep, I can hear my tent mate snoring which I wish I had the same deep sleep too. As I hear one porter giving the signal for full marathon runners to get up and prepare, I pulled myself out of my sleeping bag, change to running gear, pack all my things, go out to pee  and eat breakfast. This is it, no any other day but this day. This is what we come here for and all of us are really excited to finally do it. It is still cold, with my lavender water resistant TNF jacket on and a buff to cover my face, we started the trek to the starting line 30 minutes before the gun start. It's a trek of a little over 15 minutes on a gradual ascend trail that eventually joins the old Inca Trail.

While waiting for the gun start I had to take off my last outer layer of upper clothing, my rain jacket leaving only my TNF technical long sleeves and another technical short sleeve shirt as my base layer. All set and ready to go.

Standing at the uphill of the Ancient Inca Trail that is only lighted by the rays of our head torches,  with my fellow 13  full marathon runners, few local crews and the Race Director Devy, I had no ambitious goal on my finish time on this race. All I thought was just douse myself with  positive vibes while running through the beauty of this magnificent place and just enjoy my run. I did not even have my usual chart of calculated time on certain distance, one thing that I always prepare on almost all my runs in the past. It is still dark, at exactly 4:00am all us started our most awaited adventure. Off we go. As usual I am taking my slow pace after gun start while most of  the other runners just run to their faster strides and slowly one by one were gone out of my sight in front of me. My slow pace was just proper to adjust to the gradual ascend of the trail while getting used to the cold early morning breeze while my lungs was getting used to the gradual thinning air.

And just few kilometers from the start even before reaching the last inhabit village of the Inca Trail, the village of Wayllabamba (2,951MASL), it already started to rain. Though it is only a steady minor drops combining it with the cold breeze of this season, early on I wish I brought with me my favorite red gortex TNF jacket. All I hope for was the rain to stop or at least will not continue to a heavier down pour. It gets colder and colder as I make my way up to the first major hill to Chakrachay (3,642MASL). This is just a 6km distance from the starting line but with an abrupt elevation gain of almost 700M through climbing at the edge of the hill. I catch up with the New Zealand runner Tim Manning early on the slope and we were running/trekking almost together on the climb of this place, with me leading the pace. Few kilometers after we catch up with Dawn Estelle, the Triathlete Mom of Winter Vinecki from Salem, Oregon. I was still ok with my pace  despite the gradual ascend, it was my wet upper clothing that made me worried this early on, I might not be able to sustain on the more higher elevation.

As the day slowly breaks while negotiating to this uphill trail I can  hear the sound of the river below way below the slope if teh mountain side.  I am already soak on the rain. But despite my condition it was rewarding to see and witness the beauty of the tall mountain ranges  that surrounded this place. And surprisingly the leading runner, Matt Pepler from New Zealand is already running his fastest stride on the way back down the trail. Wow...Amazing, he is just incredibly fast. Until more runners followed on their way down. Running 10th among the 16 runners that I know will be running the full marathon, I can hear the coming runners saying 10 more minutes, almost there. 2 and a half hours after the start I finally reach  the turn around point at Chakrachay, a little over 12km from the starting line. I am cold, wet and both arms  numb, I cannot feel anything. I know I had to go down faster to recover. While taking some food, Tim arrive and just few minutes after Dawn did. After few bites of bread I run down ahead of them, until Dawn and Tim catch up with me running down fast, in fact they were not running, I see them flying. They were really fast that it was just impossible for me to catch up with them. Hhhmm, I shouldn't be the last runner for there are still two runners negotiating this uphill slope towards the turn around point. At the junction on my way back to the village of Wayllabamba, I was already with the sweeper of the race, a local guide. Only then I found out that  I am the last runner of the full marathon.   Jeff and Mike (all the while I thought will be running the full marathon) decided to do the Inca Trail Classic route. As early as this part,  I was already with the company of the sweeper, which turn out to be  a very big help especially towards the second half of the race. 

Oh by the way, this is a race that is kept at a very very  low key. Runners do not wear bib numbers, no trail signs along the trail and no start and finish archs and banners at the start and finish line. No flaglets, no usual running signages at the side of any part of the route.

Back at Wayllabamba village mark a little over 18km distance, almost 4 hours on the trail, I am now with the company of Tim Manning. He is just few meters ahead of me. But as soon as we join the Inca Trail proper, it was already a never ending uphill for me and I am now joined by the hikers, local guides and porters carrying around 20kgs on their back. Sorry for me, it was all steep steep uphills, at some point I wish there were flats or a downhill part. Until we enter the mossy trees on rocky steps. Starting at this point all I wish for are my precious trekking poles. I know it could have been of great help on this part especially that I am seeing Tim on his poles way ahead of me.

I was never happy with my pace at all. The only reward for me was the beautiful view of the mountain ranges with clouds down below. Until a surprise water station at the middle of the uphill slope. Wow. Happiness. At least this will give me a chance to rest. I am now a little over 21km with 3,306MASL elevation at Ayapata. I catch up with Reagan Rice, a retired Navy from Florida, USA who used to be stationed at Subic Bay, Philippines in the late 70's. He mentioned several Filipino food he was fond of eating on his stay in the country including balut. And I catch with Tim here too.

After grabbing a bite of bread and sip of the soup, without resting my legs, I resume my uphill struggle. It was a relentless climb up to another camp  with an elevation gain  450MASL from the last aid station. Lots of climbers and porters preparing to start the trek that will eventually join me on the uphill adventure. As I come to the open trail of steps made of laid stones leaving the forest line, all I can see is the beautiful mountain range in front,  both sides (on the left and on the right) and at the back leaving the valley down where we come from early this day. On the right side of the mountain is a sweet surprise of the magnificent view of Mt. Veronica that is covered by snow.

In front of me is my final task on this part of the trail, The Dead Woman's Pass (Warmiwanusqa)  4,206MASL, the highest elevation of this trail, the highest peak of this race. With 5km distance from the last camp site, it has an altitude gain of 1,200MASL. No wonder I was just struggling this bad.  I can see each person in front of me moving, but on a slower pace just like me.  The Pass looks near but every step towards it was not easy, I need to stop, at some point sit down on the side and catch up my breath. What an agonizing feeling seeing Tim in front of me slowly moving forward while I am stopping more often to catch up my breath. I can feel the thinning air while my lungs is grasping more air. All the more I thought of my trekking pole. Several times I had to ask the sweeper to open my hydration pack to hand me some food. This difficult part  brings back my  memories of struggles on  my Mt. Aconcagua summit attempt and Kilimanjaro summit day. Hearing the words of encouragement from the hikers boosts my morale to step forward, push further and keep going. This part is just really agonizing but to DNF is not an option. I just had to move forward.

With a slow push further I finally made it to the top, covering almost 24km of the race course. Most of the hikers at this part take few minutes of rest, I wish I can do the same but I just cannot.   As I look ahead of me, the trail going down into the valley of Pacamayo is already calling. After few click of pictures, I rush down to the 3 kilometer descend on an uneven rocky steps of different sizes. One will just have to be extra careful not to injure oneself on this kind of trail. At almost noontime, I reach the next aid station, it was already hot including the Gatorade drink, a choices of fruits, noodles, soup, bread were available. I took little bites of some and proceed without even taking time to rest my legs again.  A little further after this station is another ascend of a combination of steps on ascending trail of stones to the next pass, Runkuchay Pass. It was already almost 12noon, I am still on my slow pace on all this uphill parts, despite the only 341meter of elevation gain. I was just struggling. Until the sweeper asked if I can still go on. Of course I had no other option but to continue the race despite my slow pace. He offered to bring my hydration pack which at first I refused. Passing by the ruins of the Watch Tower and the lake, I did not even take a picture at all, finally at the top of the pass again with an elevation of 3,962MASL. The mountain ranges covered with snow is just a great reward after a hard climb up.

And the sweeper said this will be the last steep ascend. Huh...what a relief. But hey, how many more hours for me to reach entrance gate of the Machu Picchu National Park, the entrance towards the finish line of this race? Around 4:30 to 5 hours Mam. What?!!! That was already 30 minutes after 12noon. Reaching that late was unacceptable. I asked further, 'if that is the case from this  part how many hours will it reach me to Phuyupatamarca?' around 1 hour 40 minutes. 'How about from that point to the entrance gate?' another 2 and half hours. Oh no, I will be in so much trouble if my pace will continue to be this slow. The gate will close at 3:30pm and they are strict about that. I need to push myself faster than my usual pace.

Giving my hydration pack to the sweeper, with a goal of reaching the gate by 3:00pm, I dash down the trail, run as fast as I can with the sweeper following me. I thank him so much of his presence, there were some junctions that I had to ask him which path to take. Remember, there was never a single trail sign placed on this race along the trail.

Leaving most of the climb, it's now mostly flat or downhill but on a rocky steps that leads to Sayacmarca, 3,580MASL. Passing three tunnels  in between stone paved trails, this is  such a magnificent construction of Inca trail with stone stair cases. It now leads to Phuyupatamarca, 3,653MASL, the 3rd and the last pass on this trail. I pass by Tim and few more kilometers I pass by Reagan. Few more meters down below is another aid station which I did not stop at all to grab anything, moving on was already the view of the Urubamba River.

I just run and run and run on the series of hundreds of steps made of stones which I finally learn the rhythm of hopping from one rock to the next of different sizes. As I go further, I pass by another ruins which we have to run on the stairs at the middle of the two terraces. I kept on asking the guide, 'where is the trail that leads to the Machu Picchu and where is Machu Picchu itself?' It turn out this part was still far to that point. Crossing the other side of the slope of the mountain, we then enter the cloud forest until I reach Weynay Wayna, 3,610MASL. Another campsite here, a small aid station with local marshals waiting for the runners and a toilet. The sweeper asked me if I need to have a bladder break, which I did not think at all. Even the sweeper probably noticed that I did not also do any toilet break on this race. All I have  in mind is to reach the gate before anything else. I proceed and few more meters is the most awaited gate to Machu Picchu National Park, its 2:40pm. I was just to glad  I made it to this part almost 20 minutes earlier than my target time.  The sweeper and my guide hand me over my hydration pack. It turn out he is not allowed anymore to enter the Machu Picchu National Park and I have to be on my own again up to the finish line.

Clueless of how many more kilometers to the finish line, I was just taking my slow pace again. It shouldn't be much longer anymore, I thought.  I was running on my own, sometimes pass by hikers who are just too happy to see me running for they there were already 17 more runners ahead of me that already pass by them at this time. Almost an hour inside this trail I reached the most awaited part   before reaching Intipata (The Sun Gate). It's the few meters of inclined steps that I hope I can use a rock climbing rope and harness to bring myself up to the other side. It's a four wheel drive for me, using my two hands and both legs, if only I can use my chin too. With legs already tired I just had to push up. I said to myself, the Machu Picchu site must be very precious for I have to endure this much, I have to run this far, I have to struggle that much in order to see its beauty. True enough, upon reaching the top of Sun Gate, with the sun almost to set, there before me is the ancient sacred city that is laid out in all its splendor, standing tall with all its beauty. Standing this high overlooking the Machu Picchu ruins surrounded by the towering mountain ranges is just a magnificent view to witness. I wanted to cry. It was all worth the sacrifice.

But hey, I am not done yet. I still have over  a kilometer to run down to the finish line. Confused of which part of the trail to go, though there is just one, I asked the Park Guide, which he leads me. Another  uneven stoney path. Guided with the view of the ruins I just run and run and run down. Until I never realized I was already at the finish line. Thanks to the presence of Siane and Nikki Manning, they were waiting for Tim to arrive. I did not realize I am already done with my full marathon.

A finish line with out a finishers banner or even just a plastic string to indicate  the you are already done, I bring out my Philippine flag and asked Siane to take some photo of me. Happy, very happy that I finished 12th among the 14 full marathoners. I just did my most difficult race ever (that is at least for me).

I am glad I decided to join this trip, I did The Most Difficult Marathon in the World. It was all worth it. I have no right to do the analysis if it really was the most difficult full marathon after all,  for unlike the other runners of this race who did several extreme races compared to myself. (I only did 27 full and ultra marathons of my over 2 years of running, 8 of those 27 are full marathons.) More than the distance and the elevation gain, it is the running experience on this ancient place that makes this adventure a worth while adventure. Inca Trail Marathon is a big check. You are so lovely and sweet to me. Thank you.

I thank few people that has a big heart who helped me make this trip happen, without them I will not be on this part of the globe. My forever Sing Phil Enterprise team who continuously support my local and international adventures, thank you Elete Electrolytes, Altra Shoes, SLS3 for the support. Thank you to the power of Essentials, Coquinone, Procosa and Active Calcium...you keep me going.

This is a well organized race by Andes Adventure, it is always a pleasure to meet and to be with a lot of different runners and people on some parts of the world. You all make part of my story book. Thank you. I hope I will bump into some of you someday somewhere on my adventures.   

Race Itinerary - Inca Trail Marathon to Machu Picchu 2013
2013 Inca Trail Marathon to Machu Picchu Race Result
Inca Trail Marathon Photo Gallery taken by Othe Participants

National Geographic Live! - The Call of Everest

Transvulcania Ultra Marathon 2013

Lift Up 15

Speed is not the answer to life issues. Even if you can run 100 kilometer per hour but are running in the wrong direction then your destruction will only come faster and sooner. Life is not a 100 meter sprint, it is a marathon. Pace yourself. Most importantly, be sure you are running in the right direction. Somebody said: "Success is not achieved by intention but by direction." - Francis Kong  

TNF100 PH 2013 - A Repeat with a Twist

I can't ask for more, God gave me the strength to finish the race despite my physical condition at that time. It may be a stubborn call for me to proceed knowing how tough the course ahead of me. But I made it and will always be thankful and grateful.  

A day before I left for HK100 this year, a friend from TNF informed me that the registration for this year's TNF100 has been open and they invited me to be part of the early registrants. Without hesitation I give it a go. Few months after,  I realized, what had I put myself into again. Being one of the  33% and  the last and 6th female finisher of the same course and the same race last year, I know exactly how difficult this race is going to be. But there is always this side of me that wanted to test myself again how far I can go. I got myself into it again, I might as well face it just like how I did it last year.

I did my usual routine, training runs several months prior to the race, but I know it was not as often as the preparation that I did last year. I even did not log longer mileage at this time. And weeks before the race, I had several nights of lesser sleep and more so on the night before the race. Our original plan of where we are going to stay turn out to be too far from the starting line which we decided to do a last minute search for a place where we can stay for the night. A very dear friend came to the rescue and offer his place, a 3 hour of not so good sleep is much better than no sleep at all.

An hour before the gun start,  we finally arrive at the starting/finish ground at Camp John Hay. Another gathering of runners who said yes to the challenge of running the 100km distance, majority are familiar faces whom I run with last year and few new faces aiming to finish this famous brutal route of TNF race. After I finally settle my things, my big bag to the baggage counter, gear check and race check in, final bladder unloading which is just at the dark side of the activity ground behind the bushes. Finally, I am ready at the starting line waiting for the final count down. Few picture taking with running friends, one interview by a TV Channel and few good luck wishes to friends running the same distance. 

I really cannot describe what I exactly feel at that moment.  More than the excitement, I am more anxious for the race to start so that I can get over with it soon and be over with the race a day after. A thought of finishing earlier than my time last year came to my mind, why not, I can go for an earlier finish this time. As soon as we are released, the usual, I just do my slow running pace on the familiar trail still on the wee hours of the night with the illumination of my headlamp as my only light to make a sure landing on the familiar trail inside John Hay. I started to enjoy as soon as I get my rhythm. The weather is perfect, the coolness of the place is just right for a start of the run.

After 40 minutes I pass by the very first Aid Station, still dark, I continue on. The first 8.4km is over and I am way ahead of my an hour and a half projected time on this part. Almost 10km to the next Aid Station,  though I reach the station much more earlier than last year, at this time I am just really very conscious that I should do it faster. And despite my faster pace as early as going to Aid Station 2, I can already feel the effort of pushing myself ahead than enjoying the beauty of the place. Running on my own, I sometimes catch up with other runners and sometimes other runners catch up after me. As I move to AS3, I can already feel my push on all the uphills and I feel like it's longer this time compared last year. I feel like the road goes on forever, I stop at the house for a cold soda just how other runners did. A minor stop from a rolling road is a good break on this unending road.

As I reach the most awaited Philex Ridge, the trail on my way to AS4, this part of the course really never fails me. Despite my push to move faster, one will never pass this part of the course without noticing the beauty of the place. It's just simply beautiful. And thank goodness, we are greeted by a cloudy morning, this part is an open and exposed ridge, the morning sun is hiding behind the clouds. The fog continuously move from one side of the ridge to the other making the view surreal. I continue with my steady pace but if last year I was just running like a child, this time I notice every kilometer of the distance, I vividly remember where will the next uphill slope be  even before going to the next covered part.

I am too conscious with my hydration and the hammer perpentum that my friend Amy left for my use, aside from my elete drink give me so much pleasure. I like the milky taste of it. So I am alternating the hammer perpentum as my main drink with my chia seeds with drops of elete electrolyte solution on one 500ml bottle and plain water on the other bottle. My food intake on the other hand though was not too often as noticed. It is just a  bite of cookie and chocolates in between stations. I reach AS 4 10:30am, exactly the same time as last year. I grab some food again (pan de coco is my favorite at this time), and thought of pushing further, eating while slowly trudging the unpaved road now slowly exposed to the sun. At this time, the sky cleared and the sun is already out. This is going to be a 12km mostly graveled  downhill road. I remember how I suffer on this part last year.

Even before reaching the most downhill part of this route I can already feel the heat of the sun. As soon as  I arrive the house that I ate solid meal a year ago, I asked for ice cubes, of course they do not have one, I forgot this part of Benguet do not have electricity yet.   I settled of pouring cold water on my head from the free flowing water in the faucet and drink very small amount of coke just to quench my thirst and craving of it though I know I should not take any of it. I did not take the offer of  eating solid food at this time. Few more minutes I proceed with my run walk pace.

And I come to the downhill part of the open road of Ligay. It's hot, as expected the road is uneven, steep, downhill, compact with gravel and stones. I just maintain my steady pace with so much care, I cannot run any faster, I have to be extra careful, I always aim to be injured free. Lots of thoughts going through my mind. I have to deal with the terrain for I am already here. And when I saw a runner in front of me bringing out his umbrella, I thought I should have brought my own, it could have helped with the situation. Until I reach the paved part, it's a mixed emotions, I know I am finally near the mid point of the course but the scorching heat of the sun is really killing me. The heat that comes from all directions, above, from the ground and the reflection from the bushes and the trees, just how it was a year ago.

I finally reach Kenon Camp 1 a little over 2pm, a little faster than my time a year ago, I am burned, hungry, thirsty and tired. As  I approach the aid station, I can see Des waiting for me. I can't wait to sit down and have something cold to drink. He said our things are at the right most part of the area. At the tent where most of the runners ahead of me are resting including my friend Allen and my dear friend  Merlita. I wanted to stay with them but even before reaching that part I already see an ice cold water and ice blocks at the water station, I refill my water bottle, asked for ice cubes and pour ice cold water on my body. It was really too hot. I asked for halo-halo, and it is available, I've been wanting to have one few hours before this time. As I reach the area where my midway drop bag is, I compose myself, refill my electrolyte drink, change my rain jacket, brought bonnet and gloves, and add more food to prepare me for the next half of the race, all of this while eating my halo halo alternating with pan de coco. It just really feel so good eating something very very cold. What I did not foresee is that I did not have anything solid yet since the very last aid station almost 4 hours ago.

 The pan de coco just cannot sustain me that long. After my toilet break which finally feels relief after doing number two, Des and Shai forced me to take rice and chicken. As I do not have the appetite anymore, I force myself to take some bites of the chicken but not even a spoon of rice. After few more minutes I left. That was not even 15 minutes of break.

At almost 3pm I proceed. This is going to be a long slow uphill exposed trail still under the scorching heat of the sun to AS6. I just take my own slow pace pushing uphill. The ice cubes that I brought with me that I put on my buff at my nape helps cool me down while exposed to the heat of the sun. An in-between sub station is situated with readily available flowing water is a big relief as well. Few meters upon entry on the road is another sub station with medics waiting for the runners, I asked for another set of ice cubes for what I carried already all melted away. Now on the road a little past 4 in the afternoon, a bit cooler than earlier. I just make a slow pace run. This is still going to be few kilometers on the rolling road. Upon reaching AS6, I grab another block of ice while refilling my water bottle and grabbing some bites of fresh banana. After few minutes I proceed. Now almost all on an uphill road.

The unending uphill road starts my uphell journey. Already tired, I can feel my energy starting to get low. I tried to boost it with some chocolate bites but to no avail. This will be my 5th time on this trail, I know exactly where it will led into, the turns, the ups and downs, the forest and the hills, the switch back on the mountain slopes and the several wooden gates that I have to cross over. I met  Ate Josaw early on and she nicely asked what I need she offered chocolates which I refused, egg and boiled camote which I grab the egg and slowly eat while trudging the unending uphill road. As it gets dark, so is my energy really getting lower and lower. I traversed the first uphill part inside the forest, all by myself. I accepted to myself that on this race I have to be ready to face the trail in the dark ALONE. True enough I did. Despite the darkness, I prayed I will not encounter any snakes on the trail. I do not know what to do if I will encounter one. I was literally alone with the sight of the blinker that serve as my guide, and the reflectorized ribbons ahead of me keep me company. Still the usual event flaglets that serve as the main trail signs are a big help. I did not see any light from a headlamp infront nor behind me. It just simply means I am on my own.

As I was finally out of the forest and face the switchback trail on the mountain slope under the big pine trees, I really felt sooooooo sleepy, very sleepy. I tried to push myself but to no avail, until at the flat area that is a very good place to rest, I decided to stop. One group of runners catch up with me, they are Ariel's group. They advised to me to take gels, any gel that I have. I tried to swallow the entire one sachet, it helped. It's a struggle, I have to make sure the slimy substance sinks into my stomach otherwise I will vomit it. Ariel gave me a menthol candy which is a big help of putting another flavor to the taste of the gel. Few more minutes they have to advance, it is just too cold for them to stay. As much as I wanted to stay, I move slowly with them, being the last runner on the group. Until few more kilometers, I pass by the group of Sir Jonel, taking a rest on the grass beside the sub-station with marshals on tent. I forced myself to swallow few more gels, and decided to lie down with them. It was cold, but the sky is bright with the glittering of the starts. Few more minutes they move. I decided to move with them.

Then we noticed the group of Ariel came back, they thought they were on a wrong trail. Two groups of almost 10 runners on the trail. As usual I am on the tail end until the group of Sir Jonel move ahead. I am left with Ariel. On our way down to the trail towards the road to Sto Tomas peak, Ariel is just too  sleepy as well. I welcome his request for a rest, I needed more minutes of nap. We did, take something solid first then a nap for 5 minutes. It seems like it was just too short. But I have to move on with him. A slow ascend on the rough road, until I reach the last intersection before it enters the road to the peak. It is getting cold. I decided to put on my jacket, and while the others decided to move Ariel and myself decided to take another nap, 10 minutes. Another sub station is set up and is watching on us. Even if I still want to stay longer, I cannot, it's getting colder on the open and I won't have no one with me on the trail. One of the marshal give us a cookie which I accepted. I slowly eat the cookie while trudging the uphill part on my slowest pace. I am just really very tired and sleepy.

This part towards AS7 is going to be a slow ascend and in my case a very slow ascend. I am way ahead the cut off time, Ariel is nowhere to be seen and I catch up with one runner who paced with me. Upon reaching the water station of AS7, I vomit again, all water. The marshal got alarmed, he wants to assist me to the medic area, but I told them I will be ok, I just have to let it out. True enough I feel better after I vomit. I drink water and proceed down. Major Ron catch up with me, he said we are going to take a nap at AS8 and zoom ahead. This will just be a 2.9km to AS8 but on a downhill rough road with gravel and stones. One doctor assists me which I insisted no need for him to do that for I will be fine. He needs to assist other runners as well at AS8 which he really has to go down. I proceed ahead of him, until he stopped where his 4x4 car is parked. I told him I wish to take a ride with him but of course I cannot do that for I am still on the race. He went ahead, on his car while I continue on with my snail pace walk.  Until Alen catch up with me on the road. At first we were together, until he went ahead again on the last kilometer. I was already on my auto pilot mode, eyes closed with trekking pole served as my guide while moving forward. Several times I noticed I am already at the side of the road, but one instance that scared me the most was when I was already only a meter to the cliff of the road. Oh shoot, this is not going to be a safe thing for me. I forced myself to keep awake, and move until finally I reach the most awaited AS8. Lots of runners, lots of volunteers, lots of medics and most of all variety of food to choose from. A line of chairs were set up for runners to rest while taking break and eating. The chicken sothanghon soup was a very big relief but I did not take any other solid food. I decided to bring with me boiled banana.

I thought I should trek down with Alen, the next 8km part is the most treacherous of all. I cannot afford to be alone on this trail on this ungodly hour of the night, if I have a choice and I choose not to,   I decided to join him even if I feel like I have not really rested well yet. We are way earlier than my last year's schedule. And we proceed. The terrain did not change, it is still the same, the steepest descend. This will just be a 7.9km distance but on a long unending steep descend all the way down to AS9. Last year we did this almost 5 hours. We move faster at this time. I don't want to be left behind but since Alen also does not want to injure himself, we both agree we will just take it really slowly. Until few more runners over take us, really they are just hopping going down. It becomes monotonous and boring after a little over 2 hours of unending going down. After a little over 3 hours we finally reach the next aid station, AS9. I try taking some solid food again, I know how high the push is to the next and last aid station. But even before I can swallow the boiled banana, I throw it up again. Alen witness it, I am really struggling putting anything into my stomach, tried coco bread, but feel the same.

And we proceed to the very last stretch of the race, still dark. Alen and Chin An patiently join my pace, me being the last among the three. Alen patiently waited for my snail pace while Chin Ann slowly move forward until as the day breaks no matter how I push myself faster, I just cannot. I realize this will be Alen's second and revenge race, he cannot afford not to reach the finish line just because of me. Being familiar with the terrain and on our second day break on this race, I ask Alen  to go ahead as I will continue on my snail pace. I have enough time ahead of me to finish the race but with my condition I am not too sure how far my legs can carry my weight, honestly, I just really feel so weak. What I have in mind is for as long as I can move forward, I will force it until I will reach the finish line. But such thought and push is not an easy ordeal at all. With nothing on my stomach for several hours already, I feel just too weak but I have to continue on. 

The last 11km seems like forever especially that part of the Loakan Airport, I still have so much time left but with my condition I really do not know how far my feet can be on the ground thus how much further I can go. Upon entering John Hay, the shorter distance runners has been released and I will be sharing the same route with them on a counter flow direction. With an hour left to do the remaining 4km distance to the finish line I am hopeful I will make it. But at some point I have to assert myself with other runners whom I share the single track trail on a counter flow direction to please let me pass first as I am dying to move forward and be at the finish line still standing. I know how the trail exactly goes on this part, the remaining uphills and downhills, the bends and the turns, on  my mind I just have to endure a little longer I now know without any doubt I can cross the finish line still within the cut off time. My God, it was never easy to reach the most awaited part, that feeling when one can already hear the voice of the event announcer, the cheer of the crowd, I know too well I am just few steps away from the finish line. Tired, drained, wasted, burned, sleepless yet all of the pain are gone seeing that I still manage to drag myself within cut off time with a bonus for finishing 7th on the Female category and number 100 among the 108 finishers.

It was tough, I did not imagine myself to be at my worst condition on this race but it happened. I know I have lots of lessons to learn but I am still thankful to God for giving me the strength and will power to endure despite my condition. He gave me the strength again at this time but I know I need to work on how to improve on it for my future races. I thank the marshals and support at the aid stations, they have been a great help, I thank the fellow runners for giving me the inspiration to push forward, for enduring with me and for keeping me company, I also would like to acknowledge those runners who followed my blog and recognized and said words of encouragements along the trail, you all are an inspiration. It is such a heart warming feeling to know that in little way my past experience inspire and help others to do the same feat that I am doing. See you again all on the trail and/or on the road. 

This year's TNF, I discover another favorite food that would be tasteful even on the longer hours of running, Pan De Coco. No boiled ripe banana and sweet potato at this time. As always, I would like to commend the organizer of this race. The free bus ride left on time, though we are still 30 minute late to the race briefing. But nonetheless, we still arrive on the race briefing venue with the last part of the briefing and enjoy the free flowing carbo loading party (CLP) after. The starting/finish ground is now much bigger giving the runners and organizers alike enough space to move around. The stations are well stocked with food, drinks and cold drinks (with ice cubes on accessible areas by vehicle), the mini sub stations in between are very big help in the evening where I was alone most of the time and on daytime when the heat of the sun was just unbearable. The trail signs are endless, infact the first half is even over kill, the assistance of marshals on the critical points are very helpful, the blinkers and reflectorized ribbons and tapes are a big help. The food at the finish line help me to have something even on a very slow intake. 

All in all, I got the price I paid for this race, infact I gained more in return. Aside from the addition of points gained to qualify me to international ultra races, another running lessons learned and more friends gained, honestly I have got more than what I paid for. Bus free ride back and forth to Baguio from Manila, a free hydration belt, a technical running tee that fits well on me now, a carbo loading meal, a gift certificate worth 2,000.00, and a medal with 7th place on Women's category engraved at the back on it. Indeed, God is so great.

I'd like to thank the people who believe in me, my sponsor brands who never gets tired of supporting on my ultra races: Sing - Phil Sports Inc (PH) and Sing Phil Enterprises (SH), Elete Electrolytes, Altra Shoes, and SLS3 Compression. To all my friends and family who never gets tired of supporting and praying for my safe race and most of all to God for all the strength. To God be the glory. Til my next adventure.  

Grand to Grand Ultra 2013 - I Am In

Started this day with a grateful heart. I cannot contain my happiness and joy and wanted to share my blessings especially to my very few followers on this blog.

I got accepted, I will be in G2G 2013.

Monday with so much blessings to be thankful and grateful for. I was awaken by a message from a very good friend, the Race Director of Grand to Grand (G2G), a 267km 7 day 6 staged race in Northern Arizona to Southern Utah. She has a generous sponsor who wants a runner to be bringing the Philippine flag to her race for the first time. And she has me in mind.

 

 It has been my desire to join this event since it's inaugural  race last year. I come across this race through the FB announcement sometime March last year, been following the regular posts on the event's official website. Running beside the Grand Canyon and most especially through  the desert of Arizona and Utah is something that I had been fascinated of doing. 

By following the event I found out that the Race Director is a lady and not just an ordinary lady but a lady ultra runner from the Philippines, isn't that wonderful?

This is going to be a great race and I am going to have a grand adventure.

Thank you G2G, thank you Big G for so much blessings.

Grand to Grand (G2G) 

Grand Canyon to Grand Stair Case

Cambodia's Ancient Khmer Path 2012 Race (Movie by Boundless)

"We are running on our own but we work together as a team." Paul

"You take it from what it's worth, but the human body can accomplish with the help of the mind, there are no limits." Simon

"It's been a spiritual journey on this race. It's about the moment, appreciating where you are". Simon

A movie coverage made by Boundless, a Canadian outdoor sports tv channel who covered two of the competitors of my first multi staged race in Cambodia last quarter of last year. I just want to keep a copy of the movie. (I am not really sure though if others can open and view the video.)

Global Limits Combodia: The Ancient Khmer Path 2012 Race

A Long Pursuit of Self

Reposting as Lizzy will always be my idol on the trail. 

As posted at New York Times
By SARAH BARKER
Published: April 15, 2013

“I try to focus on running the very best that I can, literally moment by moment,” said Lizzy Hawker, a 36-year-old British ultrarunner.

Lizzy Hawker had just finished running a nine-stage race through some of Nepal’s wildest trails when she learned that her flight back to Katmandu, about 200 miles away, was canceled because of bad weather. 

In August, Hawker won the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, a 104-kilometer race that included 6,000 meters of climbing.

So, rather than wait for the next flight, she ran there. 

There were no cheering fans, other competitors or prizes. Instead, Hawker, a 36-year-old British ultrarunner, was intent on beating her time over the same route from 2007, which was 74 hours 36 minutes nonstop. Few cared if she broke her record or abandoned her effort. The competition was with herself. 

“I try to focus on running the very best that I can, literally moment by moment,” Hawker said. “If I’m in pain or tired, I don’t have to fight it. I can be in myself, in the environment. It’s amazing what you can do running moment to moment.” 

About halfway through the run, where her route turned from trail to road, Hawker met her friend Roger Henke from Katmandu and three other Nepalese runners. Their van held food, water and a back seat for napping. Late in the second day, Hawker was nauseated and having problems with coordination, Henke said. 

He recalled: “Having retched out the last bit of liquid from the previous stop, she’d say, ‘Would it be O.K. if I lay down just a bit? Hope you don’t mind,’ with this very British teatime politeness.” 

The van followed Hawker through the last leg of the run, with Henke and the others taking turns running alongside her. 

“Throughout the three days, she slept maybe four and a half hours, never more than 50 minutes at a time,” Henke said. 

She set a personal record to Katmandu from Everest Base Camp of 71 hours 25 minutes. 

Hawker has a reputation for pushing farther, faster and more often, even by the standards of other ultrarunners. In a four-week period in 2012, she won the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, considered one of the toughest trail challenges; overcame a fall to win the women’s 100-mile Run Rabbit Run in Colorado; and set a course record for women in the 155-mile Spartathlon Ultra Race in Greece. Many ultrarunners would consider that a full year of competition. But Hawker routinely flouts conventional wisdom, partly because she is able to recover so quickly. 

“I might have run better with more rest,” she said. “But again, I might not have.”

During peak training and racing periods, she can log 12 to 14 hours a day on trails over three to four days, with a few 150-mile weeks. 

But she demurred, “It’s not as much as people imagine.” 

Hawker’s résumé tells a different story. She holds a doctorate in polar oceanography from Cambridge, has won the women’s Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc five times, and has finished first in more than 35 trail ultras, including the Annapurna 100, the North Face 50-Mile and the Transgrancanaria 123K. 

Unlike most ultrarunners, Hawker challenges herself on all surfaces. She won the 100K world championship in 2006 and set a 24-hour world record by running a 1-kilometer loop of asphalt 247 times at the Commonwealth Championships in September 2011. She has reached the summit of the 22,349-foot Ama Dablam in the Himalayas without oxygen and was named a 2013 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. 

But Hawker said her greatest accomplishment was having the courage to try something new, which was how her career as an ultrarunner started.

In August 2005, Hawker and some friends were camping near Chamonix, France. Her friends went home, but Hawker was intrigued by the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, a roughly 103-mile circuit of the mountain that begins and ends in Chamonix. 

“I ran every day, so I knew I had endurance, but there was no indication I’d be good,” she said. “The idea of making a journey around Mont Blanc just seemed like a good thing.” 

She took her headlamp, a borrowed backpack that was too big for her 5-foot-4 frame and a pair of trail shoes that she had bought at the last minute, and headed to Chamonix. 

“At the start, I was thinking of a line from ‘Alice in Wonderland’: ‘Begin at the beginning and go on till you come to the end. Then stop,’ ” she said. 

She ran the race with a sense of wonder rather than trepidation, ogling buffets of food at aid stations. She was surprised to be the second woman through the first major checkpoint. It was then that she thought she should really start running. She enjoyed the solitude of running through the night in the tiny bobbing circle of her headlamp, making it through the race one checkpoint at a time. She was the first woman to finish, 24th over all, in 26 hours 53 minutes. 

When pressed about pushing her body to perform without sleep for more than 24 hours, she could identify only one low point in the race. It was in the pouring rain with five or six hours of running remaining. 

“I was longing for a cup of tea with milk,” she said, “but they gave me a cup of meat soup with milk. It was disgusting. And I’m a vegetarian.” 

After the race, the apparel company North Face approached Hawker with an offer of sponsorship. Extremely independent — she trains on her own, coaches herself and belongs to no club or team — she accepted the offer, hesitantly. 

“I wanted to be sure of what they expected in return,” she said. 

Over a period of years, she built up trust with the company. From 2005 to 2008, she kept her research position with the British Antarctic Survey and used her vacation time to race. With a small stipend from North Face and additional money from writing, editing and coaching for the Laufschule Scuol, a training center in Switzerland, she left her job and moved to the Swiss Alps in 2008. 

The soaring Alpine terrain is a far cry from her childhood in Upminster, a suburb of London. Her passion for mountains began when she was 6 on a family vacation to Zermatt, Switzerland. 

“Maybe it was just a reaction to suburbia, but I felt at home there,” she said.

Hawker’s work ethic also started at a young age. 

“I always liked doing things the hard way,” she said. “If I could take a bus or walk, I’d walk.” 

For Hawker, there is no joy in unearned rewards. She has said she would need to hike to the top of a mountain to be able to enjoy skiing down it. She would never buy a lottery ticket, because if she won, she would not feel she had earned the prize money. 

Her work ethic, and the mental fortitude it built, have helped make her one of the top endurance athletes in the world. It requires a strong mind to balance the two competing thoughts at the core of endurance running: listening to one’s body and ignoring it. 

“If you’re hungry or cold or tired or in pain, you have to listen enough to put on another layer or get a hot drink,” she said. “But at the same time, you have to be able to disregard those feelings. In hard patches, I might think about what I’m going to eat at the next aid station, or someone who is waiting for me at the finish line. I try to be in the moment, good or bad.” 

But why Hawker continues to push herself to extremes is hard for some to understand. Most ultraraces, like the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, offer no prize money. Even the top ultrarunners are little known outside the sport and work other jobs just to get by. Injury is endemic, and suffering is part of the pursuit. 

Alone, cold and tired on the trail, she, too, sometimes questions why she does this.

“You have to give yourself a good answer to carry on,” she said. “I think we’re all looking for that edge, challenging ourselves, whether that’s expressed through music, writing, raising a family or endurance running. 

“During extreme challenges, you come back to the core of who you are; it helps you know yourself. For me, running is a way of moving I really love, and I love being outside in the mountains.”

It All Depends on What You Believe

It All Depends on What You Believe

 

 

Why chia seeds are today’s ‘it’ food

They are packed with nutrition, but experts caution that they are still no substitute for a balanced diet

By Anne A. Jambora
Philippine Daily Inquirer

10:33 pm | Monday, April 1st, 2013 

Runners believe it makes them go the extra mile, bodybuilders swear it helps them build more muscle mass. Heck, even ancient Aztec warriors are believed to have sustained their energy with just a tablespoon of this exotic seed.  

If you’ve been working out in the gym recently, chances are you’ve heard about the mighty chia seeds. But are chia seeds really the superfood many claim them to be, or is their sudden rise to popularity a mere product of clever marketing? 

The fitness industry took interest in chia seeds when American author and journalist Christopher McDougall wrote about it in his 2009 New York Times Bestseller book “Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Ever Seen.”

In the book, McDougall documented the Tarahumara tribe in Mexico, who ran ultra marathons (typically a distance of more than 100 km) at incredible speeds with minimal or no injuries at all.

The tribe’s choice of energy drink? A “home-brewed Red Bull,” wrote McDougall, called chia fresca, made of chia seeds mixed in water with sugar and lime. A tablespoon of chia, McDougall wrote, “is like a smoothie made from salmon, spinach and human growth hormone.”

Wrote the author, “If you had to pick just one desert island food, you couldn’t do much better than chia, at least if you were interested in building muscle, lowering cholesterol and reducing your risk of heart disease; after a few months on the chia diet you could probably swim home.” 

A vegetarian for 19 years, Vesagas said she adds a tablespoon of chia seeds to her coffee three times a day. Chia, when added to water, turns into a gelatinous, chewy substance. “I feel bolder now, more confident, since I don’t get cramps anymore,” she said. 

 Chia, or Salvia hispanica, is a member of the mint family from Mexico and South America. Eaten raw or added to dishes, chia seeds do pack a lot of bang for the buck. Their Omega-3 fatty acids are much higher than salmon, they’re a good source for complete protein, have more fiber than flax seed, and contain a wealth of antioxidants and minerals.

 International Krav Maga Federation instructor Abe Tolentino began taking chia seeds over a year ago when he read about their anti-inflammatory properties. As an instructor, he said, his joints took a beating. He makes green smoothies or puddings with chia seeds. He admits, though, that he is not really sure if the chia seeds have been beneficial so far. 

“I have no clinical studies to show that they make a difference. I’m generally a healthy person. For my raw vegan friends, though, it’s the highest source of Omega-3 from a non-animal source,” Tolentino said. His diet consist of 50-70 percent raw veggies per day.

There are also claims that consumption of chia seeds promotes weight loss because it curbs the appetite, balances blood sugar levels, and lowers cholesterol and trigylcerides and blood pressure. Registered nutritionist, dietitian and weight-management consultant Pam Joyce Laiz, however, cautions the public to remain skeptical of any product whose claims have yet to be extensively studied by science. 

“While it is true that chia seeds contain so many nutrients in just one small serving, claims of their benefits are not proven and need more scientific studies. These are all testimonials. There is, in fact, no such thing as ‘superfood.’ That’s a term coined by marketing people. You cannot get complete nutrition eating chia seeds alone,” Laiz said. 

She said Vesagas’ cramp-free running, for instance, may be attributed to the fact that chia seeds are high in potassium and are extremely hydrophilic. Meaning, they hold water well and retain the electrolytes. For endurance athletes, this is good news, Laiz said. But unless you’re athletic, she said it is best to stick to just one tablespoon or less of chia seeds a day.

Chia seeds are high in fiber, so that consumption of more than a tablespoon a day can cause bloating and constipation. She said that is generally not a problem for active people such as athletes and fitness buffs, who tend to consume a lot of water every day.

Healthy metabolism

The Omega-3 fatty acids in chia seeds, as in most plant sources, are also short-chain, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), not the long-chain eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) found in fatty fish like salmon. So don’t take chia seeds expecting the benefits of fish oils. The body, however, converts ALA into EPA and DHA, albeit in really low doses.

Although it is not known if both short- and long-chain acids are equally beneficial, especially since EPA and DHA seem to be the popular choice for Omega-3, adding both into your diet, said Laiz, is, in fact, beneficial to the body.

“ALA promotes integrity of cells in the colon. That means a healthy metabolism and digestion. One is not necessarily superior over the other. What’s important is, you get the benefits of both short- and long-chain acids,” Laiz said.

Excess consumption of Omega-3, she said, could cause the blood pressure to dip extremely low, dilate the blood, and malabsorption of other nutrients. Laiz said the daily recommended intake of Omega-3 is only 300-500 mg per day, although it is still safe to go up to 3 grams per day (3,000 mg). Chia seeds, she added, contains around 2,250 mg per tablespoon. (A tablespoon has 68 calories.) 

Since chia seeds are a complete source of dietary protein, packed with all the essential amino acids, muscle wasting, a concern mostly by bodybuilders and those wanting to build muscles, will be minimized. Muscle wasting happens when proteins break down faster than they are replaced. Amino accids, such as those contained in chia seeds, are the body’s building blocks. 

Chia seeds, however, do not act like diet pills. Laiz said because digestion is slowed down, it can give you the feeling of fullness. But this feeling, also caused by its high fiber and protein content, does not necessarily curb the appetite. If you want to lose weight, the most sensible thing to do is to cut your calories and start moving.

 Since the transit time in the gastrointestinal tract is slow, the conversion of carbs to sugar is also slower, so that may stabilize blood sugar, she said. Since it lowers the blood pressure, it may also be beneficial to hypertensive people.

But before running to your nearest health store, Laiz said chia seeds interact with drugs. If you’re taking medications for, say, diabetes, hypertension or cholesterol, consult with your doctors first. She added that heart patients must also seek their doctor’s advice before adding chia seeds into their diet.

Laiz’s conclusion? Chia seeds are a good source of nutrition—loaded with high nutritional values than most food sources in such a tiny serving—but they do not provide you with everything you need. A well-balanced intake of nutrients is still recommended.