Tuesday, December 31

Grateful for 2019

Coming from an uncertain 2018, I said to myself I will take it easy the following year when it comes to my races. I will only join races that I can manage to squeeze into my schedule.

With no definite goals and targets for 2019, indeed I choose races that I can manage to travel. My Saturdays becomes open which gives me time for trainings and racing, indeed I became literally a weekend warrior. When I do not have commitment in my family I take it a chance to train in the mountain, when a race that I joined can be done without me being away from my work, I do that, even if it means I have to go straight to the airport from work on a Friday and go straight to the starting line to catch up the start of a race with less sleep and rest or no sleep at all. I sleep at rest during the travel.  And same goes on going home after the race. Most of the time I go straight to the airport after finishing a race, to catch up my flight and there were instances that I have to bring my Monday office uniform for I will go straight to the office after I get off the plane. And for all those travels, I only had a carry on luggage, aside from the fact that it will save me some penny, I can be out straight from the plane to catch up a taxi ride rather than waiting for my luggage at the assigned luggage conveyor.

But surprisingly I managed to do more races than I thought I can. Statistics for the year are as follows:

27 Registered Races
2 DNS
4 DNF
4 Full Marathon (Road and Trail)
4 50km Ultra Race
5 55 to 50 mile Race
3 100km Races
5 Below full Marathon Races
8 Out of the Country Races (Malaysia, Taiwan and Hongkong)
7 Asia Trail Master Races Category 

My 2019 races are the following:
1) HongKong 100km Ultra Trail Race - January 19-20, 2019 (HongKong) DNF, #1 Out of the country travel 
2) Seven Eleven Road Race - 32km Road Race - February 3, 2019 (Philippines)
3) Lumban Challenge - 16km Trail Race (Philippines) 3rd Place, Female Category, February 10, 2019
4) Conquer Ascend: Maragondon Peaks Challenge - 42km Trail Race (Philippines )  February 24, 2019 - 2nd Female Category
5) Cordillera Mountain Ultra - 50km Trail Race (Philippines) ATM Race#1, March 10, 2019
6) Sungai Menyala Forest Trail Race - 50km Trail Race (Malaysia-#1) ATM Race#2 - 2nd Female on Age Category - my first international race podium
7) Ultra Trail Mt. Guguan - 100km Trail Race April 27 and 28, 2019 (Taiwan) DNF, #2 Out of the country trip
8) Tayaw Trail Festival - 25km Trail Race ( Philippines)2nd Female Category, May 12, 2019
9) Hardcore Hundred - 100mile Trail Race May 17 & 18, 2019 (Philippines) - DNF
10) Penang Eco Trail Race - 100km Trail Race (Malaysia -#2) ATM Race#3, July 13 &b 14, 2019
11) Run Against Cancer - 12km Trail Race (Philippines) 2nd Female Category, July 21, 2019 
12) Milo Marathon Elimination  - 42km Road Race (Philippines), July 28, 2019
13) Trail Mania PH Marathon - 42km Trail Race (Philippines), August 18, 2019
14) The Magnificent  Merapoh Trail - 100km Trail Race (Malaysia - #3) ATM#4, August 25, 2019 
15) Conquer Assaul: Maragondon Trail Trip Ultra - 55km distance, (Philippines) September 21&22, 2019
16) South Sierra Ultra - 50km Trail Race, Sept. 29, 2019
17) Mt. Talinis Mountain Ultra - 70km Trail Race, (Philippines) 3rd Female, ATM#5
18) Ultimate Trails of Penanng (UToP) - 100km Trail Race, October 12 & 13, 2019 , (Malaysia #4), 5th Female
19) The Great Malaya Race - 100km Trail Race (Malaysia #5) DNF
20) Altra Superior Talamitam - 16km Trail Race, (Philippines) October 27, 2019, 2nd Female
21) Survivor50 - 50km Trail Race, (Philippines) November 3, 2019, 3rd Female
22) Clark Mayamit 50 Ultra Trail Race - 87km Trail Race (Philippines), 6x joining this race, 5consecutive times and made me a certified badass
23) Punisher 50, 80km Trail Race, (Philippines) ATM Race#6, 2nd place, my 10th Grand Master Race, making me 2star GM
24) Monte Alba - 42km trail race (Philippines)
25) Malaysia Mountain Trail Festival - 70km Trail Race, Malaysia #6, ATM Race#7, 6th Female
26) UTMB - August 31 - Sept. 1, 2019, DNS
27) Iranian Silk Route Trail Race - Sept. 29 to Oct 5, 2019, DNS



 


 

Monday, June 24

Penang Eco 100 Ultra Marathon 2019 - Malaysia

My very first Endurance Nature Race: Penang Eco Ultra Marathon 

On that one weekend in June, my dose of adventure in the trails of Malaysia was like two separate races in one event under the scorching Malaysian sun and torrential monsoon rain on over a  100km distance. When finally the schedule of the 5th edition of Penang Eco100 was a month after H1, I thought it will be an easy chance for me  to join, but a major office activity was set on almost the same date as the race, I cannot travel a day earlier nor not be in the office a day after the race. Thanks to the unusual start of the 100km distance (1pm), that gave me the chance to travel the night before the race with enough time to catch up the gun start and traveling back right after the race. It was a fly in - run - fly out thing for me. Alen was kind enough to help me collect my race bib a day before the race (though I missed the Event Expo) and he had me in his hotel room for me to change to running attire and fix my drop bag the day I arrived and change to travel clothes right after the race before I flew out of Penang.  I even haven't got a chance to enjoy the famous Penang food nor enjoy the tourist areas in the island that I visited more than a decade ago. It was a long tiring Friday for me at the office, so I took advantage of the 4hour flight to KL from Manila to get my much needed sleep and rest (though this was also where I lost my precious expensive eyeglasses inside the plane), the waiting at the pre boarding area on my lay over  before the boarding gate opened and the 1 hour flight to Penang. That was my only sleep before I embarked on this adventure. As soon as I got out of the arrival area at Penang International Airport I rush looking for an open store that sells SIM card, there was none that early, I got a taxi hoping to reach the hotel earlier but I went to a different U Hotel (apparently there are two which I did not check). Finally when I reach U Design Hotel I had just enough time to fix my things and catch up the bus that will bring runners to the starting line.

I arrived at the school at Sungai Lembu where the start and finish of the race still with enough time to prepare my things, final check on my drop bag and luggage before finally handling it to the baggage counter. A lot of familiar faces, local and foreign runners, including Filipino contingents, which was a nice time to reconnect. I met few of the 100mile runners already covered more than 50km since their gun start more than 7hours earlier,  Ali Ajis from Brunei was there who decided to stop from the race, Yim who was looking for his second drop bag, Narnia (Adelinah) was in a hurry going out to do the next part of the race and Razif was there too who decided to stop from the race. We went inside the hall for the gear check, collected our timing chip and GPS tracker. The place was huge to house hundreds of runners. Adjacent to the start/finish arch is the activity area, arranged in such a way that runners, volunteers  and organizers can move and do things freely. Each category has it's own race briefing before gun start. So while waiting for the race briefing of the 100km to start  there were already food at the aid station area, as we haven't eaten real meal yet (especially for me) Alen insisted that we should look for food somewhere, for those at the start/finish line aid station are for the runners already in the race. There was a small family restaurant that opens at the intersection  of the road which we hurriedly ate. Even before midday, the scorching heat of the sun is already evident though the forecast says it will rain within the day. Before the race briefing ends Alen already grab ice cubes to his hydration bag  which I went  out in a hurry right after the race briefing to grab some as well. I should have put some on my headware and wet my clothes early on which I regret I did not do.

MY RACE
Thankful and grateful that I am finally standing at the starting line and finally able to join this race, I look up the cloudless sky and whispered a prayer asking the universe to keep me safe and protect me the entire race and guide me as I aim to finish  not later than 30mins before COT, for me to be able to catch up my 9:30pm flight. Few minutes after, the countdown begun and off the 201 runners started this adventure.

Though I have been racing countless times in few parts of this country, I got excited to embark on my very first Penang Eco ultra race, excited where the trail will lead me. My strategy in mind is start slow as I listen to my body, to get a comfortable pace, move my feet forward for as long as I can, kilometer by kilometer from one aid station to the next.

From the road to the trail that goes through endless palm and rubber plantations to the villages in between with lots of open areas and roads too, from the starting line this is going to be an almost 10km distance to the very first aid station. I just took it slowly keeping a comfortable pace as I am trying adjust my body to the heat of the sun. Early on I was already sweating like buckets. The ice cubes that I put  in my hydration bladder helped a lot in keeping my body cooler, I constantly hydrate with my mix of tailwind with chia seeds and plain water to avoid dehydration early on and alternating it with solid food, my pie's energy bar. On my slow pace I just appreciate the green scenery around catching up few runners in front of me while few runners pass by me too without me noticing 19minutes after an hour of running I reached the entrance of the temple, CP1 finally. Rene and Uncle Ray were there, and Alen was about to leave. I immediately look for ice cubes to refill my hydration bladder (full of ice cubes), replenish  my mix of Tailwind while eating watermelon and sandwiches. Few minutes after, I thought of grabbing few more ice cubes in my headware for my head, there was none left, all consumed, which most likely the refill came  after, I hope. I wet myself with the remaining cold water at the bucket and grab more watermelon and off I go to the 2nd aid station.

As I moved forward, I noticed the hydration bladder full of ice cubes in my vest becomes heavier but I did not mind the extra load for as long as the melting ice inside my vest keeps the temperature of my body down, a sip from it from time to time give me so much pleasure. From one part of the road to the next as we continue to thread through the maze of this flat terrain, it passes through rice paddies, with few villages around, there were times we went through small loops of roads in between houses, sometimes under a road, a marker very visible to the eye. Once one will hear the sound of the vehicle then this will cross the road through another plantation of palm and rubber probably. I reached CP2 with no more ice cubes which I was so looking forward to refill my water bladder, that disappoints me as I was so hoping to have another supply in my hydration vest, probably I was too slow, one runner shared his to me, after grabbing few slices of watermelon, I proceed to the next. I went up to that hill which runners like almost bump into each other, which I hope it could have been longer and higher before it goes down and back to the road again. CP2, 20km with running time 2hours 51minues.

Now on to another flat terrain,  from the trail beside the river seeing water buffalos, herds of cows and monkeys too, it goes through another palm plantation,  trail signs are just easy to follow, white ribbons with event logo, red E paint on the posts, trunk of the trees, and on the road itself, a signage of turn left or right is positioned on major crossings and intersections most especially that part that will cross main roads one will not miss. At some parts there are roving marshals on motorcycle on sections almost to an aid station informing runners that aid station is just few meters away. I consciously keep a steady pace, running along few 100mile runners gave me some boost of motivation and inspiration, my admiration goes to them. I salute those runners  infront of me too who can  run a steady fast stride. I am in awe with their persistence. Me? I was down to my constant snail pace. From the trail to main road watchful of the fast moving vehicles few big drops of rain came, until it became faster then finally a heavy down pour. While other runners put on jackets and raincoats, I welcomed the rain with so much joy. This is what I needed to lower the temperature of my body, i did not mind having  wet shoes and socks nor wet running clothes. I have been wet just few kms since I started anyway. I reached CP3 with running time 4hours and 19minutes. Though wet from the rain I still hoard ice cubes in my hydration bladder, ice cubes in my headware and on my tank top. KT tape on my knees now started to fall apart which I hope my knees will hang on despite loose tapes, I do not have any knee support even on my drop bag. Watermelon is the most refreshing food to take on this hot and humid race that the rain gives us a little break from the heat.

But the coolness that the rain brought did not last long. As I tackle the next 13km to Suling Hill, the sun came out again. My shoes and  socks  gets dry fast as I slowly move to the next aid station.  From the flat terrain the road finally leads to a climb which gives me joy. I feel early on I had too much of the flat terrain already. Had a short stop at the comfort room along the road, that gave me the chance to do number 2 and wet myself again before reaching  the aid station at the top. Right after I had my timing chip scanned, I saw Alen again about to leave, Doi doing the 100mile resting on the grass. As soon as I move to the aid station table volunteers were ready to attend to my needs, refill ice cubes to my hydration bladder, refill my tailwind bottle, but because the mix was a bit pale to my taste, I always add from my own sachet with chia seeds, refill my collapseable flask with cooler water, grab more of the watermelon again and sandwich and off I go. CP4 at 42.8km with running time of 6hours and 38minutes.

Though it was still bright I decided to bring out my headlamp early on, left CP4 the soonest. Crossed over the gate barricade and search for the next trail sign. The road still goes a little uphill before it finally goes down all the way down. It  was quite long and I was just running and running and running was all that I remembered, and I cant help but recall my MMTF experience in this very part, a never ending going down on the road.  This is going to be little over 7km to the mid point of the race, the next aid station CP5 which is the start/finish line. I was on the main road with lots of fast running vehicles, I can see few runners in front of me, until the remaining 4km turn right into the trail inbetween trees mostly uphill. Finally finally all the time I wonder when will ever this race gets inside a trail finally came. I love so much this section, it was already dark, the reflectorized trail signs already becomes visible. I catch up with Alen and few other runners infront of me. I was just pushing on the uphill, run a bit on the runnable parts and down hill until it reached back to the start/finish line. I saw Jennica and Desrie on their way out as I enter to the finish line. CP5 covered 50km in 7hours 52minutes running time. I thought of going straight to the baggage counter when Renee Tan came and told me to get some food while she will grab my drop bag for me. After Renee handed to me my drop bag, the very first thing I did was look for my set of change clothes, while eating bits of the fried rice, Renee refill my hydration bladder, I said I will go to the nearest CR to change, I went to the Male RR for I cannot find one for the female, total change of running attire including shoes which I seldom do in a 100km race. When I  return to the table Renee was still there to assist me, she gave me more water, I continue eating rice, I thought it could have been nice if there was soup, but it was fine. I asked her if the RD is around, for I did not notice on the few minutes that I was there, nothing really important but it could have been nice to see any of them.  I brushed my teeth final trip to the rest room and at 9:20pm I left the aid station. I thank Renee for her kindness in  assisting me. I owe you one girl. This part reminds me so much of my TMBT experience with Jefferlyn Castillano, having a mid point of the race back the start/finish line where buffet of food and festive atmosphere was so tempting to just stay and enjoy the party, This time I was so time conscious that I left right away after doing my thing.

First part done! 50KM, 7hrs 52mins! On to the second part!

As I started the second half of my adventure, I went out on my own, I look around hoping for another runner at least I will have company especially on the major intersection. I saw one,  we walked together and follow the trail sign that direct us to CP6. Its all road again, until it enters the rolling rough road, one local runner catch up with us until the trail leads up towards the hill beside a fence. It was totally dark now, I lead the way going up, I can see lights from runners infront of us, as we reach the open part, I can see a painted trail sign pointing a bit straight but towards the left. I can see one reflectorized ribbon attached to like a stick a bit elevated from the height of the grass in front of us but I cannot see any after that. I can see the contour of the mountain a bit on my left but there was no trail sign at all. Few runners are down below on the road on our right, I shouted where to go next, they replied to just go down. We went down and joined them on the road, a little further while already on the road as I look up on the mountain slope on my left there I saw another stick with reflectorized marking. There must be another one before that that probably fall down or we just missed. It was all road after this, on the right was like a body of water on the left is the contour of the mountain which I wish we were somewhere there rather than on the road again. 

And the left turn towards the mountain starts the several jagged peaks of the race. The trail switched back on slope of the mountain. I dont have much recall of the details of it anymore but what I remembered is that I had so much joy and fun despite me pushing to move faster on all the climbs. The trail inside the forest inbetween trees really give me so much fun, I just move upward forward and run on those runnable parts, downhill has always been of extra care holding from one tree to the next so as not to stumble and  fall. For the distance of almost 10km it took me more than 2 hours to cover (11:32pm at CP6), still hot and humid despite night time, just like my routine in the daytime. I still refill ice cubes on the bladder, watermelon and sandwiches and still a mix of tailwind drink. The next 10km with two major climbs that  took me a little over 3hours to cover but really I did not complain, I was not even mindful of my time, I just move forward climb those endless ascents, run those runnable parts including going down, I did not think so much on the fact that I did not have my trekking pole and that it could have been very useful on this part of the trail. I just hold into the trunks of the trees, take my balance on those parts with nothing to hold into. The reflectorized trail sign become so visible, closely placed to each other. There were white paper trail signs too with drawing of two barefoot that are attached to the trail with some are scattered on the trail which I thought almost all through out the race was part of the event’s trail  markers. I reached CP7 3:10am, I take some food and when I decided to change the battery of my flashlight, I decided to take a nap. I was not really sleepy.  I was already awake when Alen called me that we should keep going. He went ahead, I grab some food then I followed. He said he will only be walking so I was hoping I will catch up with him. Few meters after I left, Jen and Desrie followed, I can see them from behind. It started to drizzle but I did not mind the rain,  then turn left of the road then right entering under the road to the next community. I tried to wait for them at the covered part but to nobody appeared, I moved forward following the trail sign. Inside the village with rows of houses, despite my being alone, I woke up the dogs, I decided to move to the other side to the road, and waited for Jen and Desrie, I decided to go back a bit but nobody appeared until one Malaysian runner came. Alen was nowhere to be found, probably he run so much faster this time.

And we just walked, from the village to the road on an open horizon wide and flat until it started to rain, heavy down pour of rain, with thunder and lightning. We continue on, few runners pass by us. This open part I imagine to be like a rectangular in size, never gets to end any sooner, we were just walking under the rain. I did not put on any jacket nor rain coat.   I stopped to a shelter when I saw one senior Malaysian runner taking a shelter, after sometime the other runner whom I walked with early part of the trail came, I joined him. We finally cross the road we have to search for the trail sign, we had to walk back and forth from the last arrow to make sure that we were on the right direction and it was road again all the way to CP8 with some barking dogs at some parts.

Less than 20km left, I went to the rest room again and do my number 2, the chaffing around my waist is now painful but tolerable, I went back to the aid station had a cup of hot choco grab some watermelon and sandwich and left.

The trail inside the forest after the heavy downpour of the rain now becomes muddy and slippery. The senior Malaysian runner whom I share a shelter went ahead of me at CP8 but I catch up with him on the slope on the slippery trail. Minutes later it was Kitto whom I shared the trail with for quite sometime. As the going down becomes so slippery now I took the time to hold into the rope installed in critical parts. Nothing to complain despite the slippery trail, I was just enjoying this part and prefer this more than the flat roads. I arrived CP9 bright enough now I put back  my head lamp to my vest. I just grab few pieces of food then get back to the trail, it took me more than an hour to cover the less than 4km distance to the next aid station, then finally to the CP11 switching back on the mountain slope of the Durian plantation. The most awaited CP11 seems to be forever to arrive, on to the second day of the race, I slowly tackle the rolling terrain. I catch up with the two lady runners of 100mile distance, the second and the third, my admiration goes to them. The last aid station was on the side of the road, I hoard ice cubes once again, I take my time to eat, put ice cubes on my headware and slowly push the last 8kms of the race. I can’t help but shed tears, I know this is still going up, but it’s already very hot again. It was just a very very slow pace for me. On this uphill concrete road I tried to push a little harder, think of all the positive thoughts to keep me going and motivate myself to do it a little faster. After a minor descend another uphill part until finally it goes down. I was warned that the last 4km will be rolling uphill and downhill until finally it goes back to the road that leads to the finish line. As I cross the road towards the finish line, I was a bit hesitant of pulling out my flag but I did it anyway and wave it high until I cross the finish line touching that finishing banner held by two volunteers, right after one volunteer handed to me the finisher medal and the finisher shirt and a bottle of water, another volunteer cut the raceyaya ribbon and take back the gps tracker. I insisted of having another photo holding my flag then holding the finisher banner. I looked around and hope for familiar faces but there was none not even the RD, so I get inside the activity area and gather my drop bag and my luggage.

Few minutes after I crossed the finish line I was asked by the RD, ‘did you finish the race?’

Second part done in 16hours 21minutes. 104km in 24hours 29minutes

THE RACE
It was a well organized race, the organization is up to the international standards, every aspect of the event is well thought of, from the drop bag that is to be given to the runners,  to the runners booklet that was sent out before the race day containing all the details about the event, the choices of hotels that runners can stay, the buses that runners can avail to the event venue, the use of gps device, the very informative signages in every CP, a well stocked aid stations of different options of food and with lots of ice cubes, the ever ready volunteers to help runners, very visible and well placed trail markers, distance of aid station to the next is just right, roving marshals in motorcycle are very helpful especially to a runner like that is afraid of the barking stray dogs. The down side though, there's just too many roads. I mean I am not good in the trail but it is where I find my happiness. Probably that is what is the best that can be done on that side of Malaysia, the best that the organizer can look for a route on the trail rather than using too much road. 

But still I salute them to  strict implementation of rules, no head phone, no playing of music. Since there are more roads, blinkers should be a must in front and at the back of each runner for safety purposes most especially in the evening, to make the runner visible. The paper trail signs especially those that were scattered in the trail were not so good to the eyes, I wonder if there will be a cleanup of trail signs after the race. At the rope sections,  putting some knots a foot apart on the rope probably will be  helpful in order not to get rope burn, and marshals on few critical turns that runners missed a section this year. The food was great, the pansit was just too oily though and soup could be helpful at midpoint. Trekking pole will help runner a lot in the second part of the race. Have one if you plan to do this race.

Running is a very personal thing and runners join races with different goals, probably fulfill that dream of finishing the first 30km or first 100mile race. Over the years of running, I  personally believe  that running is more than just the finisher medal and finisher shirt that one collects after a race, it’s the community that you share the journey with that adds meaning to what one is doing, and that includes having a hand shake from the RD after finishing a long journey. This really is just very minute detail of a race and a personal preference, a personal opinion. Not many races does this in fact only very few races.

The race. The race for me sums up the many races that I joined in this country. The flat terrain that goes through the palm, rubber,  fruit trees reminds me so much of TMMT and Sungai, the heat and open spaces is like Sungai and the road section especially with fast moving vehicles reminds me so much of C2C. The muddy trail and the long road descent from the top reminded me of MMTF.

I finished the race without blisters despite the scorching heat and torrential rain. No issues with my stomach too. Another race ticked off from my list. I thank Alen, Razif, Rene for all the help and I thank God for all the strength.

Congratulations Endurance Nature for another successful event.

#penangeco100
#trailrunning
#malaysiatrails
#asiatrailmaster
#mythirdatmtrailrace
#altraph
#altralonepeak
#feeturessocks
#goodr
#tailwindnutrition
#piesenergybar
#ayalatriads
#proudtobetriads
#amci
#philsky

Saturday, May 4

Ultra Trail Mt. Guguan UTMG 2019

Fun Taiwan, Run Guguan. Trails of Taiwan led me to the beautiful mountain peaks of Guguan. Steep climbs and endless downhills, a little of rock scrambling, rappelling and river crossing in between switched back trails and rugged mountain ridges, farm lands and local communities. Managed to reach 4 mountain peaks and covered almost 50km distance in a little over 5,000M elevation gain. Such a wonderful weekend adventure in Taiwan!

It’s been a while since I last visited this country, the past two trips were all for a multi day climbs in Mt. Shueshan also in Taichung County but always on a winter season almost a decade ago, mountain slopes up to the summit were on thick snow for those expeditions served as our acclimatization climbs before heading to another big alpine expeditions. So last weekend’s 3rd visit was my first summer trip and its trails and mountain peaks were green and clear from snow.

I signify my interest when I learned about this race as I really want to do some trail running in this country. And when asked what distance I will run, without hesitation and studying the elevation profile I thought of running the longest distance 106km with 10430M elevation gain. Ultra Trail Mt. Guguan Super G8 with cut off time of 40hours, looks generous cut off and doable distance to finish. As I prepared my travel documents for immigration including details of this race as part of my attachment immigration papers, I learned that there are only around 33runners for the Super G8 category, list of mandatory gears are quite long from a usual 100km distance race and learned closely the number of mountain peaks we are going to climb with its corresponding elevation of each peak.

Looks like there will be lots of mountain trekking that will happen to me on this event then. Posts from the FB event page, Taiwan Ultra Runners FB group page and email communications that runners received as the race was approaching provided details of this race including detailed information of transportation to the race venue. Mr. Bill Ku, the Race Director has been very helpful too and patiently answered my questions regarding the race. I left Manila with almost all mandatory gears prepared except for the very first on the list, phone with gpx file of the map of the course on the category that I am in. I thought I will do that when I arrive at the race venue and will ask for help from someone who knows how to download it in my phone, honestly I really haven't used such on my years of running. It was only then I realized the many numbers of check points, on mountain peaks and refreshment areas (aid stations), though it is at aid stations that has the hard cut offs. I become a bit insecure and I feel so unprepared with my gpx map knowledge.

The race starts and finish at Kulaos Village, among the Songhe Tribe at Guguan, Taichung, Taiwan. A room near the race venue has been my home few days before and after the race, the place is surrounded by tall beautiful mountain peaks left and right separated by river and the main road which I am going to face come race day. Runners local and from foreign lands were welcomed with hospitality beyond compare by the race organizer and its team, Taiwan Ultra Runners. After passing through the mandatory gear, check in and giving my drop bag, I am all set and excited to explore another unknown territory with a game plan of running one mountain peak at a time. Minutes before the race, Hope Annie, the host has been repeatedly announcing to be extra careful on the trail as it rained heavily 3 hours prior to the race, the trail must be slippery. They will patiently wait for our return at the finish line.

RACE DAY

Starting Line to Refreshment 1 (Check Point 3) - 18.18km distance
Check Point 1 - 1) Dong Mao Peak - 1690masl
Check Point 2 - 2). Wuwowei Peak - 1796masl
Time: 12:00Midnight to 7:30am Cut Off Time

Hoping for the best, I toed the starting line with other 30 brave Super G8 runners. At exactly midnight on the 27th of April, my adventure at the unknown trails of Taiwan started. From the downhill road up to the bridge that leads the main highway, across is a road that gradually leads to the trail of the very first mountain peak. From the road, runners enter a narrow trail, from the very start I was already at the tail of the pack, not the last runner though.

Dark, I can see the blinker lights from runners ahead of me. Trying to get a comfortable pace as I adjust myself to the rolling terrain, one by one the blinker lights in front of me were getting smaller until its nowhere to be seen, early on I was running on my own on this dark trail. From time to time I can see the lights from the local communities and streets down below and I can see the light of the crescent moon too. I know there are still few runners behind me. It’s an established trail, I just have to be mindful of trail signs on junctions, my wish as early as now while running most of the time on my own is my safety, extra careful not to fall on some parts that has raven and wish there will be no snakes or other wild animals that might harm me. That was one thing I forget to ask from the organizer before the race started, thank God there was none. Early on there were already climbs, few parts aided with ropes and some I had to go through rugged and slippery boulders and rocks. As I was trying to conserve my battery on my watch and phone, I did not put on any gps to keep track the distance I covered, though I carry power bank but running for 40hours that may not even be enough. So I really do not know how many meters of elevation I had climbed nor how many kilometer distance I had covered. I am just thankful on the long uphill I catch up runners infront until I reach the very first peak, Dong Mao Peak - 1690masl. One peak DONE.

The weather was just right for running even on the first mountain peak. At some point I had to pull down my arms sleeves and was just on my t-shirt and long tights. From the peak, the trail passes through rocky parts, I had to look for my own spot on where I feel safe to step until the trail enters the forest again on some steep descend. The distance to the next peak is not that far but I was still running it on the dark mostly on my own. I am real slow going down as I wanted to put much caution on my knee but I also welcome the uphill parts as I always pass through runners infront of me. I reach Wuwowei Peak with 1796masl, the Second Peak, still dark. The way going down seems to be endless, light from my headlamp getting weaker, but instead of stopping to change battery with an hour before day break, thank God this country is like the Philippines that has early sunrise, decided to push harder going down. Some runners whom I pass through on the uphill passed me going down but I just focus on my own pace. At some point I was running on my own again, trail signs of several colors of ribbons, white, red, orange (which I remember orange is that of the race) sometimes with captions written on chinese characters which I don’t understand what it means. As it seems like its taking forever this downhill part, few times I had to pull my phone and check the gpx map if I am on the right track. Getting lost in a foreign land with dialect I cannot speak is the very least that I want to happen. I continue moving forward on this downhill part on my own and still no sign of Refreshment Area and I can feel I am still on higher elevation. No wonder Race Organizer requires runners to carry at east 1.5L of water and enough food as it really takes forever to reach to the next refilling station. It was really endless trail passing though different terrain, some vertical descend aided with ropes. I finally reach the aid station a little less than an hour before cut off time. There are still few runners ahead of me loading with water and food. First Refreshment did not fail me, lots of food to choose from and lots of drinks too. Conscious with my time I load up with food what ever I can take, water and lots of ice cubes and off I was determined to face the 3rd peak.

Refreshment 1 to Refreshment 2 - 15km distance
Check Point 4 3). Bojinjia Peak - 1772masl
1:30pm Cut Off Time

On broad day light now, this section has 15km distance total to the next Second Refreshment Station. The route starts on an almost 3km road until it turns left to a trail beside the post office of the town (which the spray marker on the road I missed for few meters), it’s a park with an established route with few hikers already on the trail. We now got company! This is going to be around 7km out and back trail. Early part from the park are mostly steps of different kinds and sizes, natural, of cement and steel and of wood, I take my time to adjust and enjoy the ascend, some trails switching back on the mountain slopes, some parts with big rocks with ropes on both sides until runners had to climb with an aid of some ropes. It is on this mountain slope that I had a close encounter of a big blue bird with white spot on the tail and red spot on the head. Too bad I was too lazy to bring out my phone to get a photo of it. Reaching the top has the most spectacular view, I cant help but ask the marshals for some photo despite me on a hurry. After few shots I rush going down. Those that I catched up on the ascend pass by me going down and one runner even noticed my knee concern going down.

DONE with the 3rd Peak. Back at the main entrance I can see other runners across the Family Mart refilling supplies and got few cold refreshments, and ice cream maybe? I did not. I carried 2 liters of water anyway and still loaded with cliff bars and my mix of tailwind. I proceed to the remaining 5kms of road. Such decision I regret few kms after as it took me forever to tackle this part on my own under the scorching heat of the sun. One time confused which road to take when there are 3 to choose from and my gpx map says its just there, thanks to the roving volunteers they reach just in time when I was looking for the right road. I had to go through the tunnel with moving vehicles. All through out the 5km distance I only encounter 1 runner already done with the 4th peak and on his way to the 4th Refreshment Station, back to the starting line. Whahhhh!!!!! So fast. The gradual ascend road turned right steeper now, with few houses along the way with few barking dogs. Thank God they are inside the fence. But no more stores where I can buy any cold drinks. I can see one runner infront of me, also struggling just like me. I keep a steady pace in order not to lost him in sight. With mercury now going up, this part really seems like forever. I reached the 2nd/3rd Refreshment Station around 12:40PM with no water anymore. Few runners were still there including Terence from Singapore who is about to leave. I did not see Puzi from Malaysia so I assume he went ahead. The main business is to replenish food, THERE WERE A LOT, its a buffet of food, noodles, soup, roasted chicken, and other meat, shrimps, watermelon and other fruits, sandwiches, dried fruits and nuts, etc. and lots of options of cold drinks too. I ate whatever I can but hesitate on asking for some ice cubes. Volunteers persisted there was none, at some point I asked if somebody can go down and get some ice cubes at the village below as there are vehicles available, until they bring out the supply they have. I thank them for that, refilled big blocks to my hydration vest, went to the toilet and just before I thought of leaving Puzi arrived. He got lost at the park before going out to the main highway at the Bojinjia Peak.

2nd Refreshment to 3rd Refreshment (same area)- 14.4km distance
Check Point 6 - 4th Peak - Malun Peak - 2305masl
6:30pm Cut Off Time

I left 2nd Refreshment Station around 1:05pm with few runners already decided to DNF on this part. I was determined to push in whatever way I can on this second to the highest peak of the race. There was one Chinese runner with one trekking pole ahead of me, I kept a steady pace in the all uphill road, inbetween farm lands and houses with few barking dogs, again. As I pushed a little harder going up, I met few fast runners on their way down back to the 2nd/3rd Refreshment Station. They are real fast. At some point I pass the one Chinese runner with one trekking pole infront of me, and there were less runners coming down including Fanny the first Female runner. The trail goes around the mountain with some parts with wooden stairs. Most parts I was on my own, sometimes I met hikers with big backpacks going down, some of them asked me something in Chinese which I replied I can only speak English, sometimes I asked them if they saw runners like me up on the trail, most of them don't understand me so I act like running and point my bib number which they said yes. It always gives me an assurance that I am on the right trail. Some of them were kind enough to offer candies and others asked why going up the mountain this late. I had to reply 'because it took me forever to go up on the previous 3 mountain peaks'.

Indeed the it took me forever to cover 7km going up, I met the second Lady Runner, (I was the 3rd), few runners on their way down but still no other runner overtaking me. The trail getting steeper, some parts switching back on the mountain, some parts direct ascend, one hiker said at the peak is a hut where the two marshals are waiting for runners to arrive, that will serve as our turn around point. She even answered it will take me still like an hour to reach that part. I just patiently push myself forward, until I saw one familiar face behind me, THE SWEEPER. He cannot speak English but really is a fast strong runner. I asked him where are the rest, he made me listen to his phone saying, 'everybody abandoned the game.' That in a way made me sad, that means I am the last runner now but thankful that I am with the Sweeper as there were parts that the trail is suppose to go around the mountain rather than taking a direct ascend. Towards the peak finally I saw Terence, on his way down. Finally I got company. He asked to go down first before I go up as the stairs can only accommodate one runner/hiker at a time, as Terence can speak Chinese, the Sweeper asked him to ask me if I will continue up to Refreshment 4, which I said yes. I reached the peak 4:22pm. Right after marshal tag me, without wasting time I turned around and determined to go down now on a faster pace.

I did not mind my aching knee anymore and was just focused on getting faster down. I know I can reach the Refreshment area way before the cut off time. As I run and run and run surprisingly I saw Terence still on his descend. I know he can run so much faster than me downhill as I saw him running down from Bojinjia Peak. I move a little faster in order shorten my distance with him, it always feels good to have company, though not far behind from me is Mr. Sweeper. Upon reaching the road, I slowed down a bit as saw dogs barking and asked Terence to run side by side with him. And there he said he will stop at the 3rd Refreshment Station. That made me sad as I am determined to continue to the next Refreshment Station. We reached the 3rd Refreshment Station 6:22pm, 8 minutes to spare from the 6:30pm cut off. I had to sit down, take any food and drinks I can take and THINK. It's going to be another more than 10km mostly on a downhill road, no peak to climb on this section but with a part that will pass though a river of how deep I have no idea. I have 3hours and 30minutes (10:00pm cut off time) to tackle this part or even longer given that its already dark or maybe shorter.

But after sometime of thinking just when Terence agreed to walk with me, with another big race coming in 3 weeks time I decided to stop at KM48.8 at 18hours and 22 minutes. With standby vehicles ready, the marshals brought me, Terence and the Sweeper back to the start/finish line.

Was it really a right decision to stop at that part and not proceed to where ever I will be cut off? I may had time left, I had a little over 50km more to cover with more than 20hours left of me on the remaining 4 mountain peaks, 5. Basian Peak - 2366masl, 6. Aleng Peak - 1540masl, 7. Baimao Peak - 1522masl, 8. Tangmadan Peak - 978masl but they said its the second half that is more difficult and yes with the highest peak to climb. As I recon my experience on the first half, I strongly believe at that time that this is a doable race to finish, for as long as one will train hard for it, with no knee problem and making this an A race without any other coming race at a short span of time.

As I stayed at the start/finish line the following day watching each runner come back from the race, some G8 runners who run so much faster than me surprisingly was cut off somewhere and DNF from the race as well just like Norman from Singapore and many more. Among the G8 31starters, there were only 9 finishers with 1 female. The very first finisher is a 55year old veteran adventure sports athlete with a sub 3hours marathon time finished the race in 31hours, the only female finisher finished in almost 38hours, Fanny Wu from Hongkong who is one of HK4Trail finisher. Wow!!!!! This indeed is a real tough but beautiful race to do.

I salute every one, all the brave runners who take the challenge, I congratulate all the 9 strong and fast finishers, but most of all I salute and congratulate the race organizer for putting such a very well organized tough beautiful race. Thank you so much for having me in your race, thank you for your hospitality, and thank you so much for being so understanding despite my not speaking any Chinese at all, Thank you, Shi-Shi 谢谢.

Your hospitality is beyond compare, the overflowing buffet of food at the finish line from the time I arrived after I decided to stop until the very last runner arrived until the race event closed, food was just overwhelming and anybody can just get as much as they want. And same goes your aid stations with marshals and medics on standby ready to help when ever its needed.

I come with a strong and determined mind, I am always grateful that I covered that much distance and climbed more peaks safe and without any injury. That's all that I can handle at that time. I will come back stronger and aim to cover more mountain peaks next time.

This is one beautiful tough race that any strong fast runners must do!

Thank you Taiwan! Thank you Taiwan Ultra Runners! Thank you!

Photo credit to all the photographers and runners whom I grab the photo from.

Video Links:

Mandatory Gear:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQcD6db9YQM&utm_source=Facebook_PicSee&fbclid=IwAR3QBYAWfxMqm2_TAC4J4zvgSymC0heG1Aw4BapR8Iyjw5ug7Tt2GuiQ-1M

Longer Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8UeG9L49oM&feature=youtu.be&utm_source=Facebook_PicSee&fbclid=IwAR2_eISIiiQLLDmWu3Uqu0GeFCbj_ZomSleTKa3nMtiu2cKqLZX4-v_-VVg

Another video of the race:
https://www.facebook.com/deziLin/videos/976579992539522

Sunday, October 7

WHY DOGS LIVE LESS THAN HUMAN

Lovely story 💙 (A re-post)

Here's the surprising answer of a 6 year old child.

Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog’s owners, Ron, his wife Lisa, and their little boy Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle.

I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn’t do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.

As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for six-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the experience.

The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker‘s family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time, that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away.

The little boy seemed to accept Belker’s transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belker’s Death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that dogs' lives are shorter than human lives. Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, ”I know why.”

Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I’d never heard a more comforting explanation. It has changed the way I try and live.

He said, ”People are born so that they can learn how to live a good life — like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?” The six-year-old continued,

”Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don’t have to stay for as long as we do.”

Live simply.
Love generously.
Care deeply.
Speak kindly.

Remember, if a dog was the teacher you would learn things like:

• When your loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
• Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
• Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure Ecstasy.
• Take naps.
• Stretch before rising.
• Run, romp, and play daily.
• Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
• Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
• On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
• On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
• When you’re happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
• Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
• Be faithful.
• Never pretend to be something you’re not.
• If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
• When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by, and nuzzle them gently.

That's the secret of happiness that we can learn from a good dog.

LɪKᴇ ᴀNᴅ SʜAʀE

credit to the original owner of this write up and photo 

Wednesday, September 12

Transpyrenea Off 2018 -Through the Path of the Pyrenees - France

More than a month has passed.  Having had the opportunity to set foot on the trails of the Great French Traverse will always be a life long adventure that I will cherish more than this life time.  I may not be able to recall every details on my day to day adventure on this trip, but there are those that remain vivid in my mind up to now.  A never ending walk only God knows how long my body can hang on to the challenge.


I mastered the art of walking in the mountains of Pyrenees, mastered the technique of using a trekking pole, learned a clean trick of peeling an orange without getting my fingers all sticky and learned that no matter how muddy a trail is, there will always be a hard section that runners/trekkers/hikers can pass through of not getting wet or muddy.

Ten days and 10 hours covering  almost 500kms. I did some running of course, but really it was mostly walking, day in and day out on different terrains on different weather conditions. Under the heat of the scorching sun, on a cold freezing temperature,  on a heavy down pour of  freezing rain, ice and  hail, on gusty wind and on zero visibility trail, on  shaded trails under pine forests,  on an open narrow trails with thorny vegetation on both sides, (that was just really painful to the legs that I tried avoiding),  the sound of the cowbells that really is a music to my ear, the traffic of herd of cows  along the trail (I am just too afraid to move despite the fact that not a single cow will hurt me, they are just too big), the herd of horses and sheep, when caught at the middle of a flock of sheep when a horse, a dog and a shepherd is trying to move hundreds of them to a different pasture land (what to do, I freeze), the hikers that we met along the way, sometimes alone, sometimes in groups and in family, with dogs and children even with toddlers that barely can walk, some of them who knows about the Transpyrenea race are in awe with what we are doing, the local people who showed their hospitality,  the different kinds of flowers of different colors and sizes (yellow, lavender, white, red, big and small), the alpine lakes, waterfalls, the streams, the snow and  the scree, the mountain huts and refuges.

On  picturesque trails that passes through charming villages, beautiful local communities, postcard perfect pasture and farm  lands  up to the high peaks of the mountains, on stunning and magnificent views and vistas of the unending beautiful mountain ranges that feed my mind, my heart and my soul,  I walked and walked and walked.   

Transpyrenea
A 16-day single footrace covering almost 900km in distance from the shores of Banyuls facing the Mediterranean Sea to the shores of  Hendaye, in Southern part of France facing the Atlantic Ocean. Two big oceans separated by big mountain ranges of the Pyrenees passing through France's GR10 routes (Grand Routes). Majority of the  hikers do the west to east,  Transpyrenea race do East to West of the same GR10 route.
GR 10 is a French GR footpath or hiking trail, that runs the length of the Pyrenees Mountains. It roughly parallels the French–Spanish border on the French side. Those attempting the entire trail often choose to walk it from west to east, from Hendaye on the Bay of Biscay to Banyuls-sur-Mer on the Mediterranean Sea. Hiking the entire route is estimated to take around 52 days for hikers who are in good shape and used to mountain hiking. Some stretches involve a lot of ascending and descending, including a few one-day sections that can climb and then descend 1,200 metres (3,900 ft), but the GR 10 is a hiking trail, and there is no actual mountain climbing involved. The trail covers a distance of 866 kilometres (538 mi), with 48,000 meters (157,000 ft) of ascent and given the coast to coast nature of the route the same descent.

I heard and know about the race in 2015 months before the first  edition in 2016. It took me a while to decide, until I let go the idea of doing the race that year. A year after in 2017, I finally got the guts to give it a go. July that year I signified my interest, submitted my letter of application. Got accepted and registered. The race was originally scheduled August 1-16, 2018.  

Transpyrenea Off 2018
It's hard to figure out how to prepare for the race but as I gather the papers that were needed to be
processed and be submitted,  prepared the long list of mandatory gears needed, one month before the race, participants received an email that  the race is going to be cancelled.  I don't know how to react, to be happy as I can concentrate on my UTMB race or to join the group of runners who decided to continue with the race non-official, self supported, on their own. There were around 100 runners from the over 270 registered  participants on this year's edition that decided to still go with the non-official race. Therefore the creation of Transpyrenea Off 2018. 

And My Long Journey Begun 
I arrived Toulouse late evening of August 6, on my own I catch-up the earliest train out of Toulouse, arrived at   Bagares de Luchon 9:45am. Mark met me at the Bus Station and joined Evelyn who did some grocery of food for the runners. At the camping site near the small air strip along the GR10 route in Bagares de Luchon, Mark and Evelyn set up an aid station, water, juice, soda, fruits, bread, cheese, cold cuts. etc. We patiently waited and after several hours the first 2 runners pass by. Already on their 9th day and covered almost halfway of the course, I can see they are tired, skin a bit burned, swollen ankle, torn and muddy shoes. Lily from Indonesia convinced me to start the following day as weather  forecast will have thunderstorm on this area in the evening, going to the very first heavy downpour of rain since they started. Runners who passed  that area had already covered 28km and already did  a major climb of a total elevation of 1900MASL for the day. There will be remaining 21km of another 1900MASL climb for the rest of the route. I did not thought of the thunderstorm (but hopeful for an inaccurate weather forecast)  nor the
remaining distance and climb for the day. When the 5th runner passed the aid station,  I grabbed my hydration bag and decided to start my adventure. I did not want to waste time, all I wanted was to hit the trail.  I took a slow start  as I get myself acquainted with the trail marker/trail sign to follow that we runners shared with the hikers, I need to know how to read them while slowly leaving the bustling village of Luchon until slowly the trail goes switching to the mountain slope under the shade of tall huge pine trees. Sunny but we traverse on shaded trail, until it reached an open area with snow peak mountain ranges visible from afar. Green scenery down below if one will look back where we come from.

As we are following the GR10 route, the only marker/trail sign that I need to search and follow is the white and red stripe painted on whatever is available along the trail, on the trees, at the rocks, some on a post, there are posts far apart purposely erected for makers to be visible on the barren open space,  on the walls of the houses or buildings, on electrical posts, etc. No additional markers that are visible on the trail, no reflectorized ribbons, no blinkers, no ribbons, no caution tapes that one can see on a normal trail race, even on first edition it has be been like this. The race is meant to be self navigating with the aid of the map and gpx file issued by the organizer. (Which I don't have both.)

As the trail goes higher now on an open route, along the way  is a Ski Resort of Luchon and to my surprise a support vehicle waiting for runners to pass by. A  refreshing drink after that climb was a real treat and some bread. That was a relief until a sudden a downpour of rain came. Could this be the start of a thunderstorm that they said? But it is still mid afternoon.  Continuing on,  the rain stopped, the horizon cleared a bit and the sun showed up. From the plateau to the mountain slopes until going up again to the Col ahead with the trail switching back and forth in the now open mountain slope. From one Pass or Col to the next, I was just enjoying pushing on the uphill and running a bit on the downhill with all smiles from ear to ear. I was just so happy and so at home with all the mountain peaks and valleys in between ahead of me. I want to fly. I am in so much awe as I start threading and weaving the trails along the mountain slopes,  seeing ahead and around me the grandeur of nature. I lost count even on day one how many climbs I did until late afternoon (or early evening, it gets dark as late as 9:00pm) I can hear the roar of a thunder. Traversing the mountain slope on a trail that switched back gradually down, what was a sunny late afternoon becomes gloomy again until the rain started to drop. With the goal of covering more distance, stopping never occur to my mind, but the rain becomes  heavier that the trail was slowly filled with water. Had to stop and put on the waterproof jacket and pants. The rain was just persistently pouring, now a freezing cold water. Navigating on a heavy down pour of rain  searching for the trail sign ahead as I continue moving down has now become a bit of a challenge. The immediate goal is to be out in this open space the soonest and hope for a tree line to appear.
But that never happened too soon. The rain drop now becomes painful once it touches the jacket only to realize it started raining with ice, hail came. The open horizon becomes dark and I can see nothing except that is within the range of the light of my torch. A roar of a thunder followed by a lightning many times. Cold and wet and scary maybe but the sight of the lightning that illuminates the lake ahead and below the trail really makes a beautiful unforgettable picture that I will forever remember.   Finally from the open trail it leads to the tree line but still raining with lightning and thunder. The trail now with running water becomes rocky thank god not slippery. I noticed some species came out on the trail, I got a company of unknown insects to me. One is a  shell-less snail (it looks like a snail of black or brown/reddish color) and a stripe black and yellow small lizard that turns out to be a stripe poisonous salamander.

Now endless down on the rocky trail with water flowing. Cold wet and hungry, looks like I will survive my very first day on the trails of GR10 that welcomed me with so much rain with matching flashes of lightning and a band like sound from the roar of endless thunder. Slowly few lights down below becomes visible. Somewhere in that community must be the bivouac area of the runners to rest for the night. Until finally no matter how long the descend is, the trail ends and merged the road that leads to the community. It's a small village with less lights apart from each other. The next challenge is to look for the campsite this late on a not so well lighted community. At around 10:00pm finally my initiation day ends. A bivouac site with kitchen and luggage area inside a barn. Thank God I have a partial impaired sense of smell, I did not smell much of the horse/cow dang. I am now with the company of some of the few runners who went ahead of me and with the volunteers/support crew. This area is already on higher elevation that it was really cold aside from the fact that it is raining. No toilet and no running water to take a bath. Finally I changed to dry warm clothes, eat a hot meal and finally get inside the tent and zip into the warmth and comforts of my cold weather sleeping bag.   

My daily commute from second day on-wards has been a routine of getting up early, changing to running gear, packing and putting back all my things to the duffle bag, packing my essentials for the day on my hydration bag including food and water, eat as much food as my stomach can take and carry whatever I can and leave for the day's task and target to reach the next bivouac area on time. Getting up early isn't on the same time every day. On days that has longer kilometer distance to cover, runners need to leave at the wee hours of the morning. Putting on a wet dump running attire, getting up so early and clearing the campsite reminds me of my long alpine expeditions in the past. Hydration pack needs to be replenished with what I think I will need for the day, the dried foods that I brought,  other essentials like wet ones and toilet paper, waterproof jacket and pants, mid layer long sleeves and thinner jacket, gloves, extra head wear, torches with extra battery, sunglasses, extra socks, a small sleeping bag which I decided not to carry on the latter part of the adventure.

More often than not, bivouac areas are not within the GR10 route. It can either be a campsite within the target village, or a big hall that can accommodate tents or a place that runners can sleep for the night. Most of the time this areas has water and electricity which is really convenient for us. It is the support team and the volunteers that identifies the place and will  put markers for runners to follow once it will reach the community. Since this is not part of the GR10 route more often than not leaving the campsite still dark, it has always been a challenge to get out and connect to the next GR10 destination. Same goes when  looking for  the campsite at the end of the day's traverse. We have our maps and GPS files but there were instances it took us few kilometers of looking for the right trail and still nowhere to be found. Once daylight  came, it becomes easier to navigate looking for the trail marker to the next destination. And as usual from the village to the trail will definitely goes up to a Col or mountain passes and goes down again to the next community. 

In between villages I rely on my own food that I carry in my Amihan go-lite fuel belt that was very convenient for easy access of food. I live on Cliff power bar  every single day (3 packs per day) alternating it with dried fruits and mix nuts, chocolate and nut bars, cookies and breads and sometimes fresh fruits like oranges, bananas, apple that I grab from the bivouac area. Reaching a community or village after a long traverse is a relief for it means getting something solid to eat, a cold or a hot drink and more importantly my most awaited time to rest my feet, my legs and my body for a while, while waiting for the food to be served. 

Arriving on  small villages with less visitors in between meal time means no more lunch or dinner food that will be served. A search for a next place that will serve food will always be the immediate goal. On the more than 10 days that I was in the adventure, I only eat rice ones, that was in the community 21km away from the finish line in Hendaye. A Spanish restaurant cooked a very good beef with rice. And at Col d'Ibbardin, 12km before the finish line, on a very cold rainy late afternoon, a fresh grilled shrimp with potato fries was a
real treat. At Larry, on a restaurant inside a Ski Resort that has lots of motorcycle riders, I got turkey strips  with mushed potato, at Saint Jean de Pied de Port, it was a fine dining dinner and at Ainhoa when the family offered the food in their house. The rest of those days, my food were French Sandwich, lots of it. I lost count the number of times that I had sandwich, but that was the most common food that was available and I had. Baguette bread with ham and cheese, ham not cooked, no vegetables like lettuce or tomato on it. I can't help but compare as I am not used to it back home. I learned to love it and carry the rest of those that I cannot finish and eat it along the trail when I feel like hungry again before or after a long climb, stopping on a spot with beautiful view as far as my eyes can see.   

Hydration is a combination of water and tailwind all through out the adventure. I carried a 20L Raid Light Hydration pack with 1.5L hydration bladder and 2pcs 500ml bottles, 1 bottle is my tailwind mix and carry 3 extra packs of 3 scoops each pack each day  and the other bottle is filled with water. On day 2 on wards I decided not to put any water on my hydration bladder anymore. As I started on Central Pyrenees  with high mountain peaks, along the trail is abundant with flowing cold clean water. On times that it feels overheating on a sunny day, a site of a stream is just rewarding. A chance to replenish cold drinking water direct from a stream mostly were every runner's source of drinking water while in the mountain and it was that clean that there was no need to cure the water with puritabs or live straw which I did not bring any.

It is common in villages that we pass by that they have free flowing faucet where runners and hikers can replenish water, in restaurants that we buy food, we make it a point to ask for drinking water before leaving. One that I cannot forget though coming from a Col, it was a steep descent on scree, until the trail passes a snowy part. I was hesitant of going through that part as I thought it is going to be slippery, I even thought of how I will go around that part, but I saw some footprints right through the middle to the snow, which I followed. Down that part was a flowing water from the melting snow. I cant help but stop and change the water in my bottle. I can vividly recall that portion that is lagoon of water and that portion that is snow. Beautiful. Too bad I did not have a photo of that.

It was on my fourth day that fatigue started to sink in. On the long ascents I cant help but stop and stretch my legs once in a while. Both feet started to swell already with hot spots started to form, a luekoplast plaster has always been reliable and constant rubbing of petroleum jell, if I had the chance, in order to prevent blisters from forming. It is now evident that my Lone Peak 3.0 has been worn out  from the sharp rocky parts of the trail. It has always been the goal to reach the campsite earlier to rest the now aching legs and swollen feet. But as runners were counting the days, there were nights that campsite was just too far to reach for me. On the technical rocky terrain on a pitch dark night on a typical European trail of very long descends,  it's just too impossible to move faster.

On  my fifth night, on another ultra distance day, while most of the runners were about to leave the campsite, arrived the campsite almost 5:00am. Been out for more than 24 hours already, looking for a vacant tent, I tried to rest my aching legs. I can feel the throbbing pain on my legs despite my weary body. I thought who am I to complain, most of the runners had been out for more than 10 days now. Not sure if I rested, while most of the runners left, I took a shower, change to new set of running clothes, decided to rest my Lone Peak shoes and put on my Olympus 3.0, which turn out to be not a very wise decision. I thought the thick cushioning of the shoes will help on the rocky parts of the trail. What used to be an always bigger size for me on a normal day, with the swollen feet now, I can feel the discomfort on the downhill parts of the trail early part of that day. I had to stop several times and thought of a remedy, taking off the in-sole but did not work, taking off my socks but was painful to my forming blisters either. I ended putting on my socks and insole back and just bear the pain on the swelling feet, hoping that I will still be able to catch up with the support team on a bivouac area and have access with my duffle bag,  but turn out I had to endure the pain 'til the end of the adventure.

That day, on my 6th day with less sleep,  the goal was to cover more distance,  turn out to be my very last bivouac area/campsite, the goal was to take a rest either at Refuge Jaendel or at the sports center at La Pierre St. Martin, 678km distance for those who took the entire route.  As described by the Volunteers, the sports center is  a facility with kitchen and food, shower and bath and bed that all Transpyrenea runners are welcome to come and rest. At the middle of a foggy cold night,  not knowing exactly where the Refuge or the Sports Center among the lighted establishments, with no one to ask from, the search took longer, a place with no people around. Roaming on a place that seems like a ghost town, all of a sudden all the lights closed except for 1 building that seems to be like a hotel and lights on the posts. And even the barking of a dog that I thought I hear earlier while roaming the area seem to become silent too. At some point I thought somebody must be playing a joke here, like hide and seek,  for finding the sports center or the refuge was to no avail.

Determined,  the only option was to go to the well lighted building which at first I thought was a hotel with guests that I saw from few lighted rooms.  On an uncertain path, going straight to the building through a dip drop of ravine was the only option. As promised by our support team before leaving the campsite for that day, there will be accommodation for all the  runners at the Sports Center with food. In fact they called the person in-charged to inform that there will be runners coming. I imagine it will be like a hotel with reception area with someone waiting, a bed to rest, a restaurant where one can order food. Apparently it was not what I imagined. As the search continued and finally found an open door on the well lighted building. I was just too ready to just sit down on the floor and take a rest  when along the aisle a signage  Transpyrenea Off 2018 was visible. Following the several signage it leads to a room at the second floor with Transpyrenea photos and tarpaulins. In the corner of the room is a kitchen sink, a water heater, microwave oven with unlimited coffee and tea, chocolate bars and cookies. There was a toilet and bath but cannot find a bedroom to rest. Taking off my hydration pack, had something hot to drink, putting all layers that were available to keep me warm, I lay my tired body on the floor covered with flattened table. The original goal was to take a short nap and continue to cover more distance for the day. But with no more food at hand, no food available to grab this early on this place and uncertain on what community will be the next food available,  decided to wait for day time and check what establishment will offer food. It turn out on the same building was a restaurant where  people come in to grab for hot drink, sandwiches and a french bread. After having replenished food, had to face another day on this adventure.

On my 7th day of the adventure, I was still hopeful that I will be able to catch up with the support crew and see you duffle bag, change clothes, replenish food, change to my Altra TIMP shoes, charge my phone and carry the charger and have a longer rest, but that did not happen until the end of the journey. I had to make use of what I carried from the 5th day. Even if the trail is now approaching to West towards the Atlantic Ocean, there are still several high Cols to climb and long deep descends to face. Passing by Lake Aisling, seeing families taking their sweet time resting, I wish I can do the same, relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. It was still a long way in between trails and roads until reaching a community was a chance to grab another French Sandwich. And stay for the night at Saint Jean de Pied de Port, a Unesco World Heritage Site, this pretty small charming Basque town has lots of tourists around. With almost a 100km left before Hendaye, I just take things one day at a time. Had a good dinner, replenish supply of food for the next few days, rest for few hours and left at the wee hours of the morning while the bustling old city was still asleep.

Another day, on my 8th day. My most unforgettable day that will lead me to the most sketchy part of the trail. Up to the Col traversing some long vertical drops, I had to rely my life on the rocks    making sure of my  hand grip and foot holds are secure on the rock face of the wall until finally I reach the very top. Following the trail marker, I saw an x mark on the left, same goes on the right side, I had no other means but to check in-front, which seem to be an  abyss ahead of me. A long drop true enough a trail marker was down right in-front, with the light of my torch I  reach the bottom part of this vertical wall which is more than two story building high with the aid of  two sections of ropes. I was scared and hesitant to go down, on the many days on this trail, for the very first time I thought, can I back out and look for another option, if only there was other option but I had no choice. I had to face my fear of heights and hold on to the rope. I made it down in one piece without injury. It was rocky terrain on the next few kilometers sometimes scrambling on big boulders. I can imagine this must be a beautiful place with rock formations on day time. Trail markers were quite challenging to find most especially on the rocky part.

Looks like a turn is missed, nonetheless hoping that a marker will be just above to be what seemed like a lighted community, on what seem to be a barren place with gravel on the ground. Upon reaching  the top was a structure with a ski lift, unfortunately marker was nowhere to be found. It was an empty Ski Resort on top of a hill with lights far down below. Hoping to see a marker a little further, decided to follow the rocky road that leads down below the never ending winding road. Apparently this place a Ski Resort without any snow on a summer. Few moving lights from mostly vehicles but not any closer. Moving slowly on a freezing night finally it leads to a community with few lights open but no people around. Decided to check on one establishment where few cars  parked. Trying a luck on a closed door, bingo, it's not locked, it is open and it  leads directly to a stairs to the second floor, on the right is a wall that one can hang things and to a kitchen with microwave open, refrigerator, water heater, dining tables and chairs, a toilet and bath with hot shower. I decided to take a shower, a short nap on top of the lined dining chairs. Apparently that place was a modern Rifugio up in the French trails. After less than an hour of nap its time to move on, still raining and still following the road below in between farm lots with few houses. Not really knowing where the road will lead, one guy came out of what seem to be a barn from outside. It is a shelter that hikers and campers can come inside and rest. There were 3 of them inside who patiently waited for the rain to stop. Too kind and generous they offered hot drink which was very comforting being wet and cold.

As it shows in the map, there should be a place to get some food somewhere, along the road is Chalet Pedro, the gate was closed, no one was around as it was still very very early but the gate was easy to open. From the wide green ground it leads to the houses but no sign of people until one door opened and offered some hot drinks, bread with jam and spread. They were group of friends one of  which had a chance to work in Asia. After few minutes, it was time to move under the rainy weather. Reaching a community on an early afternoon means real food for the day. It has been a long day of climbing under the rain  until evening of still never ending rain uncertain of where will the next stop to rest be. It was a never ending walk even at the middle of the night under the howling wind with no idea where the peak exactly ends. As the destination nears to an end, thank God Cols was never that high anymore but coming down uncertain of where the next shelter be. Upon seeing a Shepherd's Shed on the descend, I did not hesitate to stop, get inside and sit on the bench. I closed my eyes trying to rest my wet tired body from the never ending walk on a freezing cold rain and howling wind on I guess just around 4 feet by 2 feet shelter. Despite my closed eyes, I can hear the soft sound of the droplets of the rain as it collided on the roof of the boxed like shelter. Wind and rain did not stop and temperature remain to be freezing. Decided to continue hoping to get a warmer temperature as the elevation lowers. No sight of stars but pitch dark with fog that boils to very poor visibility with howling wind.

The traverse was long until it leads to a winding rough road with lights visible down below, it must be the next  community, Ainhoa. As the road continue going down on a flat part on the side despite being dark, I can see 3 huge  Crucifix which I imagine this could be the last of the Station of the Cross. And as the winding road continue to go down true enough on the side every after several meters are tall crucifix which I imagine is a confirmation that this ended is a way of a Station of the Cross in the place. Knowing that, this will definitely be a long way  down counting each station. As it goes closer to the community I can hear a lively music. Looks like there is a party in town. Finally reached the road leads to the community lighted through the posts. It finally is a village of Ainhoa, at almost midnight. A site of a bench on what seems to be like a park, despite being cold, will be more than enough for me to at least take a short break and rest for a while. But God was too kind. The lively music apparently was a night of celebration as part of the community's festivity. Probably like an intruder to a partly, a family offered and opened their house, served a hot complete
meal and warm bed for an hour of rest before continuing on to the very last stretch of this adventure.

One more day. This should be done in a little over few hours after 10 days for me. Down to a full marathon distance now from Ainhoa to Hendaye. How exciting could that be. Just as I thought it will be really be that close and easy, but really it was not. With all the drama came, and with a tired body, what seemed to be so close was like taking forever to reach that shore of the Atlantic Ocean. Reached the village of Sare just the break of day light,  decided to take a rest and eat something at an empty covered shed. It's cold. Eager to get this done after few bites of what's left on my food, continued with the GR10 route until unknowingly the trail leads to a GR8 route, without having noticed which part it started to divert to a GR8 marker. Backed track to the very trail that GR10 marker last seen and trying to figure out where could be the next GR10 route to no avail. Using the GPX file leads to rolling local road that leads to a private land with an angry owner that can speak no English and worst owns big dogs not friendly to strangers, left with no choice but left the site. Continued the adventure on a terrain that has no marker nor trail yet one can hear the vehicle on the other side where the GPX file is pointing. From one attempt to the next, several  turns made, with few queries to some locals yet with no luck, just when it was at the most unexpected moment, a turn leads to a trail that has a GR10 marker post that points to the next community where runners/hikers should be heading. A more than 3 hour wasted seems like nothing for what was more important is the right trail ahead. Reunited to the original route now down to the last 30km of this adventure from Sare to Hendaye. Eager for this long adventure to be done, yet I savor every minute that is left for me on this beautiful place. I recall the trail leads to an endless up and down on the side of the cliff, with much hope that there will be no trail that will lead to a vertical drop, and thank God there was none.
The trails was just up in the high elevation overlooking to a vast land down below as far as our eyes can see, all green. A lot of hikers of different nationalities and age on this part of the route, I can see big birds flying freely in the void up above the clear sky, and few hikers flying drone too. On few instances now, I wish I can just stay for a while, enjoy the beauty of  the place, take as many photos as I want, to relax and not be pressured with time. Already delayed as majority of the Transpyrenea Off Drop Bag Group already reached the end of the trek in Hendaye a night befere and expected to already had a victory celebration on that same night. Upon finally reaching the last known community to us runners (hikers) a decision of getting a good meal was the right choice in one of the Spanish restaurant.  It was a really good meal.   What seemed to be a really short distance remaining it was a long and winding road and trail  and finally seeing what seemed to be a huge community from afar. I never thought the last 12km of the GR10 will converge into this community that French and Spanish people meet, it is Col d'Ibbardin,  a Spanis-French shopping Meca, a community that boarder between Spain and France. That decision to stop and take another sumptuous meal right before the heavy down pour of the rain was a good decision.I may not be too hungry yet but those pieces of shrimps were just really good.

At around 4:00pm all set and ready to go for the final push, the goal is to reach that  shore of Hendaye with the last ray of day light for the day.  With longer day time on this French Summer season we have 5 hours left to finish the remaining 12km distance of the entire race.   Following the remaining uphill road until the very end while it was still raining, wet and cold I made a sharp left turn right infront a building structure, following the rough road with pine trees on both sides still with white and red paint stripes of markers painted on tree
trunks from time to time. A long gradual descend passing through farm lands and few houses until it reached a dead end, end of the road.  A house with kids playing outside on this rainy day finally gave a little hope, tried asking for help on this seemed to be very less populated place, a man came out but unfortunately cannot speak English nor French but Spanish. I was trying to communicate what ever handful Spanish left in me through the  lesson I learned in my college years more than two decades ago and finally realized this is a wrong trail, this part is already Spain and not France. That officially made me set foot on the land of Spain for the very first time without any stamp on my passport.

After few conversation and negotiations convincing the man to lead and bring us to the trail of Hendaye to no avail now left without option but to back track to that gradual descend trail, which is now going to be a slow uphill part. Passing through another house that has two barking dogs probably threatened upon seeing stranger, a man on his car came from behind. I moved faster and further following the rough road which the car followed me, after few hi and hellos, took the chance of asking where the right way to Hendaye is, despite his less English words he offered a help leading to the right way using his car. A bumpy ride while going back to the rolling uphill terrain that I freely run down earlier, until it lead to the very foot of the hill where I made a sharp left turn,. it was suppose to be a right turn after all. Indeed, it was a wrong trail from the very start of what I thought was the very last stretch of this journey. With a grateful heart the man left and continue  the adventure I realized indeed that Spanish man was right, there was no way he can bring this lost runner to Hendaye as it is all single track trail from the foot of the mountain at Ibbardin a slow uphill  trail up  in the mountain. The key now is run and cover more distance  hoping to reach the shore of Hendaye before the night falls.After few more kms at the the mountain top the trail now slow descend showing the bay of Hendaye. Despite the tired body and aching legs and feet no stopping now on the endless descend hoping to reach that shore soon. But really that stretch took me forever to finish. Slowly the street lights and lights from the community show up as I gaze through the horizon wondering where the finish line mark could be. At exactly 9:45pm finally the long downhill trail merged with the road of the Upper Hendaye. Setting foot on the road was like an achievement for me despite the fact that there is still a finish line mark to find. It took me another almost 3 hours to reach that shore, following the road at the upper part of another French city through local houses, churches and parks and establishments my eyes are still awe with how clean a French community is with few local people around. The road sometimes leads back to a trail then back to the road without sighting of the beach.

As I was about to end my journey in the Pyrenees, as I was still suffering and hoping this journey will come to an end, lots of things going through my mind, I cant believe I did such beautiful yet very difficult adventure. My feeling of admiration to all those brave runners who joined this race in 2016. My respect to those who finished this race during that edition. My salute to those who decided to do this race again on the suppose to be second edition, and my respect to those who decided to continue doing the adventure despite the cancellation of the event. All of them, those who has been to this race in the first edition (finisher or DNF) knows what they will be up to on this second edition again, yet they were up to the challenge again. For me, a first timer, this race was never an easy feat to tackle, infact it was a very very challenging one. And even on this Transpyrenea Off 2018 Edition, there were those who started the run/race but decided to stop along the way.

Upon finally reaching the beach, windy and cold and now dark, it is still a very long stretch of winding path way only God knows when exactly this stretch will end. I was just too tired and hungry that all I wanted was stop and sit down and take some rest, my legs are just too tired, which at some point I did, I just sit down and close my eyes on the side walk, until finally a group of Japanese runners who were way behind  days before showed up, its just nice to see group of runners from the same group, they just came from where the finish line mark is.  Without hesitation I gathered my things and really hope that finish line mark is not too far. Until the Japanese lady support team was kind enough to lead me and bring me  to where the mark exactly is. In a dark spot facing the Atlantic Ocean is a STAR that served as the finish line. On my 11th day of this adventure, at 12:am of August 17, 2018 I finally set foot at the very end of the GR10 French Traverse route at the shore of Hendaye from the mountain range of Louchon covering almost 500km in distance.

Thinking it now, where I had been was an endless nature beauty in all aspect. I wish I took hundreds of photos but I did not. I was just too focused with getting the task done most especially on the steep ascend parts and more so on deep descends with raven only God knows how many kilometers is the vertical fall.

Doing this was a lifetime opportunity I will forever cherish more than this lifetime. The experience was priceless. IT is hard to describe how breathtaking the landscape was, the few photos that I took and those few that I grabbed from my fellow runners that I had the privileged and honored to share the trail and adventure with does not do justice how magnificent the landscape all of us were in.

My salute to all those who joined the Transpyrenea Off 2018. I thank all of them for sharing the adventure with me. I thank the selfless volunteers who adopted all of us, who thought of the logistics for 16 days, for taking care of our food and campsites, they shared their precious time with us voluntarily. I also thank the Transpyrenea Organizer, for without them this race will not be formed. The event did not turn out as expected this year but  they were the brain of this all. 

As for me, no regrets I decided to push of joining this race. I know I will not be able to take that opportunity again, I know I could not have covered that long, had it be in an official race. It was an adventure I will always be glad I decided to take my chance on and I am glad it turn out just how I wished it to be, and I was able to spend it with great runners whom I know I will not have a chance of running with  in the future.

So was it really a dangerous course,  too much of a danger  for a single staged race?
No any mountain race or activity that does not involved risk, I think all do. In the case of of GR10 route, it has to be done with extra care on those sections that are treacherous but it is doable. I hope one day the Organizer will be given a go signal to do this race again.